Materials:
Cotton thread used double (color peach, gray, beige, light brown, dark brown and
black)
Crochet hook (2,5 mm, 3 mm and 1,75 mm)
Fiberfill for stuff
Safety eyes
Tapestry needle, stitch marker

Abbreviations:
mr – magic ring
sc – single crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
ch – chain
dc: double crochet
FLO – front loop only
BLO – back loop only
Sl st – slip stitch
[ ] repeat work
hdc – half double crochet
( ) number of stitches of the round
dec3 – decrease 3 stitches together
inc3 – increase 3 stitches in the same place
All the pieces are worked in a spiral, otherwise is indicated

Amigurumi doll free crochet pattern

Arms (make 2)
Start with peach color, hook 2,5 mm.
1) 6 sc in a MR (6)
2) inc x 6 (12)
3) to 5) 12 sc (12)
6) dec x 6 ( 6)
7) dec x 3 (3).
Change to beige yarn and make Ch 11. Cut.
-Sew them to the body, close to the neck.

Legs (make 2)
Start with black color and hook 2,5 mm.
1) 6 sc in a MR (6)
2) inc x 6 (12)
3) 1 sc, 1 inc (18)
4) to 5) 18 sc (18)
6) 1 sc, 1 dec (12)
7) dec x 6 ( 6)
8) dec x 3 (3).
Change to peach yarn and Ch 25. Cut.
-ATTENTION: For inside the shirt, put both
thread into of a tapestry needle and go
through the head to the top part, make a knot.
You should do this before start to crochet the
trousers.

Head
With peach color, hook 2,5 mm
1) 6 sc in a MR (6)
2) inc x 6 (12)
3) 1 sc, 1 inc (18)
4) 2 sc, 1 inc (24)
5) 3 sc, 1 inc (30)
6) 4 sc, 1 inc (36)
7) to 12) 36 sc (36). Put the eyes between
rounds 9 and 10, separated by 6 stitches.
13) 4 sc, 1 dec (30)
14) 3 sc, 1 dec (24)
15) 2 sc, 1 dec (18)
16) 1 sc, 1 dec (12)
17) 6 dec (6).
18) 6 sc (6) Continue with the shirt.
-Embroider the nose and eyebrows.

Shirt
Change to beige color. Working in rows, join
with slst, and start with ch 1 every row.
1) inc x 6 (12)
2) 1 sc, 1 inc (18)
3) 2 sc, 1 inc (24)
4) (11 sc, 1 inc3) x 2 (28)
5) (6 sc, 1 inc) x 4 (32)
6) to 10) 32 sc (32). Change to dark brown.
This is a good moment to put the feet
inside.

Trousers
With dark brown color, working the same
way as the shirt.
1) BLO (6 sc, 1 dec) x 4 (28)
2) to 4) 28 sc (28). Cut.
-Join the thread in the central back. Work
the legs joining with a slst and starting
with ch 1.

***First leg:
1) 14 sc, join in the first st. (put one leg
inside) (14)
2) 12 sc, 1 dec (the decrease goes between
the legs) (13)
3) to 8) 13 sc (13). Cut.
***Second leg: join the thread in the round
4, when we started to crochet the first leg.,
in the center.
1) 14 sc, join in the first st (put the other
leg inside) (14)
2) 1 dec, 12 sc (this decrease goes between
the legs) (13)
3) to 8) 13 sc (13). Cut.
**Embroider the pockets with light brown
color. Also, embroider the waist.
***Suspenders: only 1 thread (not double),
hook 1,75 mm: on the front part, right leg,
join the thread on the first dark brown row,
in the center. Ch 26, cross to the back part,
to the opposite side, join with a slst. Ch 1,
and go back with 26 sc to the beggining.
Join with a slst. Cut and hide the threads.
Repeat for the other suspender.

Backpack
With dark brown, hook 2,5 mm:
1) Ch 8, from the second ch: 6 sc, inc3. On
the other side: 5 sc, 1 inc (16)
2) inc, 5 sc, inc x 3, 5 sc, inc x 2 (22)
3) to 8) 22 sc (22)
**Continue with the cover:
1) BLO 11 sc, turn, ch 1
2) to 5) 11 sc, turn, ch 1. Cut the thread.
**Join the thread on the side. Ch 32, join with
sl st to the other side (you made the belt. Ch 1,
make 32 sl st. Cut and hide the threads.
**With dark brown embroider a detail in the
cover as the picture shows. You can sew both
parts to get a closed backpack or you can sew
a button instead.

Hair
I worked it directly on the head. But if you
want it, you can make first a wig cap (like I did
in my other projects) with black yarn and then
start to crochet the curlers over it. You don’t
need to cut the thread after each row, you can
continue working with the same yarn.
***Only with 1 black thread, hook 2,5 mm, I
will work over the rows of the head, in this
way: (join the thread in the first row):
1) (Ch 6: from the second ch, inc x 5) x 6
2) (Ch 6: from the second ch, inc x 5) x 12
3) Do not work on row 3.
4) (Ch 6: from the second ch, inc x 5) x 24
5) Do not work on row 5.
6) Make curlers every other stitch, only side
to side (up close to the eyes): (Ch 6: from the
second ch, inc x 5).Here you can decide how
many curlers you want.
7) Do not work on row 7.
8) Repeat row 6.

Beret with visor
With gray color, worked double, hook 3 mm:
1) 6 sc in a MR (6)
2) inc x 6 (12)
3) 1 sc, 1 inc (18)
4) 2 sc, 1 inc (24)
5) 3 sc, 1 inc (30)
6) 4 sc, 1 inc (36)
7) 5 sc, 1 inc (42)
8) 5 sc, 1 inc (49)
9) to 10) 49 sc (49)
11) 5 sc, 1 dec (42)
12) 42 sc (42)
13) 5 sc, 1 dec (36)
14) 36 sc (36). Do not cut the thread.
VISOR: both skipped stitch and slst do not
count as a stitch of the row. Turn at the end
of each row.
1) Make 16 sc
2) Skip 1 st, 14 sc, 1 slst (14)
3) Skip 1 st, 12 sc, 1 slst (12)
4) Skip 1 st, 10 sc, 1 slst (10)
5) Skip 1 st, 8 sc, 1 slst (8). Cut the thread.
Join the thread at the back part, make and
edge of sc.

We finished our pattern. You can send the finished pattern to me on facebook, instagram and pinterest.

https://www.facebook.com/amigurumi.sdk.today/
https://www.instagram.com/amigurumifreepatternss/
https://www.pinterest.com/crochetblogkb/

More Amigurumi Baby Ideas

Materials:
Cotton thread fingering (colour peach, red, orange, dark Brown, light pink, pink)
Acrylic (dark Brown for the teddy bear)
Crochet hook (1,10 mm)
Fiberfill for stuff
Safety eyes
Tapestry needle.

Abbreviations:
mr – magic ring
inc – increase
dec – decrease
ch – chain
FLO – front loop only
Sl st – slip stitch
BLO – back loop only
sc – single crochet
[ ] repeat work
hdc – half double crochet
( ) number of stitches at the end of the round

Amigurumi doll free pattern

Arms (make 2)
Starting with peach colour yarn, working on
spiral
1) 4 sc in a MR (4)
2) [1 sc, 1 inc] x 2 (6)
3) 6 sc (6)
4) [1 sc, 1 dec] x 2 (4)
5) to 10) Change to colour pink, 4 sc (4)
— It’s not neccesary stuff them.

Legs (make 2)
With dark brown colour yarn, working on
spiral
1) 3 sc in a MR (3)
2) 3 sc (3)
3) 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc (5)
4) to 6) 5 sc (5)
7) Change to orange, 5 sc (5)
8) Change to red, 5 sc (5)
9) to 20) Repeat row 8 and 9
— You’ll finish with red.
— It’s not neccesary stuff them.
— make 2. Do not cut the thread on the 2nd.

Body
Continue from the 2nd leg, make 2 extras
sc extras to stand on the inner side (if you
are already there, don’t do any extra
stitches).
1) Continuing with red colour yarn: ch 2, 5
sc (first leg), 2 sc over ch, 5 sc (second
leg) (14)
2) to 3) 14 sc (14)
4) Change to pink colour, 14 sc (14)
5) BLO: 14 sc (14)
6) [5 sc, 1 dec] x 2 (12)
7) [4 sc, 1 dec] x 2 (10)
8) to 10) 10 sc (10)
11) Attaching the arms: [1 sc (going through
2 stitches of the arm and 1 of the body)] x 2,
3 sc on body, [1 sc (going through 2 stitches
of the arm and 1 stitch of the body)] x 2, 3
sc (10)
12) Change to peach colour yarn, BLO 5 dec
(5)
13) 5 sc (5)

Head
Continue with the head:
14) 5 inc (10)
15) 10 inc (20)
16) [1 sc, 1 inc] x 10 (30)
17) to 23) 30 sc (30)
24) [3 sc, 1 dec] x 6 (24). Stuff
25) 1 sc, 1 dec, [2 sc, 1 dec] x 5, 1 sc (18)
26) [1 sc, 1 dec] x 6 (12)
27) 6 dec (6)
— Finish to stuff and close.
— Safety eyes: between round 20 and 21,
separated by 5 holes.

Dress
Turn your doll upside down, and hook the
pink colour yarn on FLO of round 4 of the
body. Each row starts with ch 1 and finish
with a sl st on the first stitch.
1) 14 sc (14)
2) [1 sc, 1 inc] x 7 (21)
3) to 5) 21 sc (21)
6) [2 sc, 1 inc] x 7 (28)
7) and 8) 28 sc (28)
9) Change to light pink, 28 sc (28). Cut the
thread and hide.
—NECK: turn your doll upsode down and
find the middle of the chest. Hook the light
pink colour yarn on the left stitch (from the
middle), on FLO of round 11 of the body.
1) 9 inc (18). Turn.
2) ch 1, [1 sc, 1 inc] x 9 (27). Turn.
3) ch1, 5 sc, 17 hdc, 5 sc (27). Cut the thread
and hide.
— Pompon for the neck: make 2.
1) With light pink, 4 sc in a MR (4). Close and
sew to the neck of the dress.

Hat
Start with pink colour yarn, working on
spiral:
1) 6 sc in a MR (6)
2) 6 inc (12)
3) [1 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (18)
4) [2 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (24)
5) [3 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (30)
6) [9 sc, 1 inc] x 3 (33)
7) to 11) 33 sc (33)
12) Change to light pink colour: [9 sc, 1 dec] x
3 (30)
–Make a regular pompón and sew it to the
hat
–FLOWER: 1) Light pink: 4 sc in a MR (4)
2) Red: [ch 3 and sl st in the same
stitch, 1 sl st on the next stitch] x 5 petals
(the last petal goes into the first stitch
where you did the first petal)

Hair
Put the hair between rounds 1 to 4 from the
top of the head. Cut threads of 28 cm
aproximately, folded in half. With a crochet
hook, take a stitch of the head, pull the
thread for it, then pass the other extreme of
the thread under the loop; you did a knot.
When you finish, trim the hair at the
shoulders.

Amigurumi bear free pattern

Body and head
With dark brown color yarn:
1) 3 sc in a MR (3)
2) 3 inc (6)
3) [1 sc, 1 inc] x 3 (9)
4) [2 sc, 1 inc] x 3 (12)
5) [3 sc, 1 inc] x 3 (15)
6) to 9) 15 sc (15)
10) [3 sc, 1 dec] x 3 (12)
11) [2 sc, 1 dec] x 3 (9)
12) [1 sc, 1 dec] x 3 (6)
13) [1 sc, 1 inc] x 3 (9)
14) [2 sc, 1 inc] x 3 (12)
15) [1 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (18)
16) [2 sc, 1 dec] x 6 (24)
17) to 19) 24 sc (24)
20) [2 sc, 1 dec] x 6 (18)
21) [1 sc, 1 dec] x 6 (12)
22) 6 dec (6). Cut the thread and close.
— Safety eyes, between rounds 6 and 7 from
the center of the head.

Assembly:
Once you finish the doll, embroider her
white eyes around safety eyes.
Embroider her eyelashes and mouth.
Make a bow on her shoes.

Arms and legs (make 4)
With dark brown colour yarn:
1) 3 sc in a MR (3)
2) 3 inc (6)
3) and 4) 6 sc (6)
5) [1 sc, 1 dec] x 3 (4)
6) and 7) 4 sc (4). Cut the thread and sew
them to the body.

Muzzle
With beige colour yarn:
1) 3 sc in a MR (3)
2) 3 inc (6). Sew it to the head.

Ears (x2)
With dark brown colour yarn:
1) 3 sc in a MR (3). Cut and sew them to the
head.
— Embroider the nose with beige or black
colour.

Your baby is done! I hope you enjoyed doing this!
I would love to see your finished baby!

We finished our pattern. You can send the finished pattern to me on facebook, instagram and pinterest.

https://www.facebook.com/amigurumi.sdk.today/
https://www.instagram.com/amigurumifreepatternss/
https://www.pinterest.com/crochetblogkb/

More Amigurumi Doll Ideas

Materials
Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) 
Stitch Marker(s)
Stuffing
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Pins (optional)
Safety Eyes, 15 mm (optional)
– Bear with the Red Bow Tie: Red Heart Super Saver (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 364 yds/333 m, 7 oz/198 g): Color (A) Warm Brown, used approx. 193 yds/176 m, Color (B) Coffee, used approx. 10 yds/9 m, Color (C) Black, used approx. 10 yds/9 m (only needed if not using safety eyes)
– Bear with the Blue Bow Tie: Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 145 yds/133 m, 3 oz/85 g): Color (A) Taupe Mist, used approx. 193 yds/176 m (2 skeins needed)
– Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 170 yds/156 m, 3.5 oz/100 g): Color (B) Black, used approx. 10 yds/9 m (additional 10yds/9 m needed if not using safety eyes)
– Bow Tie: Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 170 yds/156 m, 3.5 oz/100 g): Color (D) Cranberry OR Colonial Blue, used approx. 15 yds/14 m

Design Notes
This pattern is written using US crochet terminology.
The majority of the pattern is worked in continuous rounds.
It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start each additional round.
At the end of each round/row the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
Further design notes and tips will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used
back bar – work stitches into the horizontal bar on the underside of a foundation chain
ch – chain
hdc – half double crochet
Rnd(s) – Round(s)
sc – single crochet
sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)
sl st – Slip stitch
st(s) – Stitch(s)
[ ] – work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
magic circle/adjustable ring

Amigurumi bear free crochet pattern

Body
The body is worked from the bottom up to the neck.
Using Color (A)
Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (36sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts)
Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (48sts)
Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (54sts)
Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (60sts)
Rnds 11-14: Sc in each st around. (60sts for 4 rows)
Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (54sts)
Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (48sts)
Rnds 17-18: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 2 Rows)
Rnd 19: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (42sts)
Rnds 20-21: Sc in each st around. (42sts for 2 Rows)
Rnd 22: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (36sts)
Rnd 23-24: Sc in each st around. (36sts for 2 Rows)
Rnd 25: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (30sts)
Rnds 26-27: Sc in each st around. (30sts for 2 Rows)
Begin to firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the body continues.
Rnd 28: [Sc in the next 3stsc, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)
Rnds 29-32: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 4 rows)
Sl st to first st of the round and fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching the body to the head.

Head
The head is worked from the snout towards the back of the head.
Using Color (A)
Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
Rnds 6-9: Sc in each st around. (30sts for 4 rows)
Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)
Rnd 11: 2sc in each of the next 12sts, sc in the last 12sts. (36sts)
Design Note: The increases made at the beginning or Rnd 11 begin the shaping of the forehead of the bear. Remember this when stuffing and shaping the head.
Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts)
Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (48sts)
Rnd 14: Sc in each st around. (48sts)
Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (54sts)
Rnds 16-17: Sc in each st around. (54sts for 2 Rows)
Rnd 18: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (60sts)
Rnds 19-20: Sc in each st around. (60sts for 2 rows)
Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (66sts)
Rnd 22: [Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (60sts)
Rnd 23: Sc in each st around. (60sts)
Rnd 24: [Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (54sts)
Rnd 25: Sc in each st around. (54sts)
Rnd 26: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (48sts)
Rnd 27: Sc in each st around. (48sts)
Rnd 28: [Sc in the next 6stsc, sc2tog] 6 times. (42sts)
Rnd 29: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (36sts)
Design Note: Instructions are given later for a crocheted eye, but if planning to use safety eyes be sure to insert them before the hole gets too small. Suggested placement: between Rnds 12 and 13 about 12sts apart.
Begin to firmly stuff and shape the head and continue to do so as the pattern progresses. Remember that Rnd 11 created a bit of a forehead. This will be at the top. Stuff and shape accordingly.
Rnd 30: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (30sts)
Rnd 31: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)
Rnd 32: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnd 33: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
Rnd 34: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure and weave in the end.

Ears
The ears are worked from the top of the ear to the base of the ear.
Make 2
Using Color (A)
Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
Rnds 6-7: Sc in each st around. (30sts for 2 Rows)
Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 3st, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)
Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnd 10: Line the bottom two edges of the ear up side by side and single crochet them together. (9sts)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing the ears to the head.

Eyes
Using Color (C)
Rnd 1: 5sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (5sts)
Sl st into the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing the eyes to the head. Weave in the starting tail.

Nose
Using Color (B)
Design Note: The nose is NOT worked in rounds.
Ch 1 and turn at the end of each Row.
Row 1: 3sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (3sts)
Row 2: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next st, 2sc in the last st. (5sts)
Row 3: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the last st. (7sts)
Row 4: Sc in each st across. (7sts)
Fasten off leaving a tail long enough to sew the nose onto the snout as well as embroider the desired mouth. Weave in the starting tail.

Arms
Make 2
The arms are worked from the paw up to the shoulder.
Stuff and shape the arms as the pattern progresses, but don’t over stuff so they will lie against the body rather than sticking straight out.
Using Color (A)
Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnd 4-23: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 20 Rnds)
Rnd 24: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
Rnd 25-26: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd 27: Ch 1, turn, [sc2tog] 3 times, leave the remaining sc unworked.
Fasten off leaving a long tail to stitch the arm to the body.

Legs
Make 2
The legs are worked from the soles of the feet to the top of the leg.
Firmly stuff and shape as the pattern progresses.
Using Color (A)
Ch 6
Rnd 1: Working in the back bar of the ch: Sc in the 2nd chain from the hook (mark this as the first st), sc in the next 3sts, 3sc in the last st, Working in the top of the ch: sc the next 3sts, 2sc in the last st. (12sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in the first st, sc the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the last st. (16sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in the first st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the last st. (20sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in the first st, 2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the last 2sts. (24sts)
Rnd 5: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the last 2sts. (28sts)
Rnd 6: Sc in the next 10sts, [sc2tog] 4 times, sc in the next 10sts. (24sts)
Rnd 7: Sc in the next 8sts, [sc2tog] 4 times, sc in the next 8sts. (20sts)
Rnd 8: Sc in the next 8sts, [sc2tog] 2times, sc in the next 8sts. (18sts)
Rnd 9-22: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 14 Rnds)
Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing the leg to the body.

Tail
Using Color (A)
Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd 6: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to attach the tail to the body.

Assembly
Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire piece and then stitch them securely into place. Remember to add any additional stuffing needed before closing up the holes on the pieces requiring stuffing.
General stitching and placement suggestions:
Center the body over the back part of the head. Adding additional stuffing right before closing is especially beneficial so that the neck remains sturdy and does not wobble.
Ears. Position the ears so they arch slightly with the front two sides at about around row 20 of the head and the back curve of the ear around row 22. No need to be too fussy.
Crocheted Eyes. Place the eyes at about Rnds 12-13 and about 6sts apart.
Nose. Place over the top front of the snout. When attaching the nose remember to also embroider any sort of desired mouth.
Arms. Place them about 2-3 rows down from where the head is attached to the body. The last round of the arm made a bit of a shoulder for the bear. When attaching the arms to the body add a bit more stuffing to help shape this shoulder right before closing up the hole.
Legs. The legs are attached over about Rnd 7-12 with about 5-6 stitches apart.
Tail. Lightly stuff the tail if desired. Place the tail at about Rnd 8 of the body, centered on the back.

Bow Tie
Bow Tie colors include: Vanna’s Choice in Kelly Green, Colonial Blue, and Cranberry
The bow tie is totally optional, but such a fun addition! Use it as a traditional bow tie or as a hair bow!

Main Part of the Bow
Using Color (D)
Ch 15
Row 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: hdc in the 3rd ch from the hook and in each st across. (13sts)
Rows 2-4: Turn, ch2 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc in each st across. (13sts for 2 Rows)
Place a st marker in the working loop and weave in the starting tail.
Row 5: Sc around the entire outside of the rectangle putting 2sc in each corner to help round the corner. Sl st in the first st and fasten off. Weave in the tail.

Center of the Bow
Using Color (D)
Ch 11
Design Note: Loop the chain around the middle of the main part of the bow to make sure that it reaches all the way around. It should be snug but reach all the way around, cinching the middle together. If it doesn’t quite reach add any additional chains needed to make it fit.
Row 1: Working in the back bar of the ch: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each st across. (10sts)
Rows 2-3: Turn, ch1, sc in each st across (10sts for 2 Rows)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching. Weave in the starting tail. Fasten around the center of the main part of the bow and stitch in place. Use the remaining tail to attach the bow to the bear.
You’ve done it! Enjoy your new snugly teddy bear! I’m sure there are many others who would love one too! Spread kindness!

We finished our pattern. You can send the finished pattern to me on facebook, instagram and pinterest.

https://www.facebook.com/amigurumi.sdk.today/
https://www.instagram.com/amigurumifreepatternss/
https://www.pinterest.com/crochetblogkb/

More Amigurumi Bear Ideas

Materials
I used Slim Cotton yarn from Retwist: skin color, light cream and light orange
Hook size 3.5 mm
Fiberfill
2 black safety eyes- 9 mm diameter
Tapestry needle
Sewing needle
Stitch marker
Scissors
Pins
Black embroydery yarn

Abbreviations
st – stitch
sl st- slip stitch
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
Inc – increase
dec – decrease

Head
For the head use skin color yarn and a 3.5 mm crochet hook. Stuff while advancing.
Round 1. 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 2. 6 inc (12)
Round 3. (sc, inc) x6 (18)
Round 4. (sc, inc, sc) x6 (24)
Round 5. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)
Round 6. (sc 2, inc, sc 2) x6 (36)
Round 7. (sc 5, inc) x6 (42)
Rounds 8-13. Sc around (42)
Round 14. (sc 5, dec) x6 (36). Inserts eyes between rounds 11-12, 9 stitches apart.
Round 15. (sc 2, dec, sc 2) x6 (30)
Round 16. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)
Round 17. (sc, dec, sc) x6 (18)
Round 18. (sc, dec) x6 (12)
Round 19. 6 dec (6). Fasten off.

Muzzle
For the muzzle use light cream color yarn and 3.5 mm crochet hook.
Round 1. 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 2. 6 inc (12). Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
With black color yarn sew the nose and the mouth in place for the puppy.

Legs(Make 2)
For the legs use skin color yarn and a 3.5 mm crochet hook. Stuff while advancing.
Round 1. 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 2. 6 inc (12)
Round 3. (sc, inc) x6 (18)
Rounds 4-5. Sc around (18)
Round 6. Sc 3, 6 dec, sc 3 (12)
Round 7. Sc 3, 3 dec, sc 3 (9)
Rounds 8-13. Sc around (9)
Round 14. 4 dec, sc (5). Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Body
For the body use skin and light orange color yarn and a 3.5 mm crochet hook. Start with
skin color yarn.
Round 1. 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 2. 6 inc (12)
Round 3. (sc, inc) x6 (18)
Round 4. (sc, inc, sc) x6 (24)
Round 5. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)
Round 6. (sc 4 , inc, sc 5) x3 (33)
Round 7. sc around (33). Change to light orange color yarn.
Rounds 8-10. Sc around (33)
Round 11. (sc 4, dec, sc 5) x3 (30)
Round 12. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)
Round 13. (sc 3, dec, sc 3) x3 (21)
Round 14. (Sc 5, dec) x3 (18)
Round 15. (sc 2, dec, sc 2) x3 (15)
Round 16. (sc 3, dec) x3 (12). Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Arms(Make 2)
For the arms use skin and light orange color yarn and a 3.5 mm crochet hook. Start with
skin color yarn. Do not stuff.
Round 1. 7 sc in magic ring (7)
Round 2. Sc around (7). Change to light orange color yarn.
Rounds 3-9. sc around (7). Fold the arms in two and sc the two sides together with 3 sc.
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Ears(Make 2)
For the ears use light cream color yarn and a 3.5 mm crochet hook.
Round 1. Ch 4, starting in the second chain from the hook, sc 2, sc 3 in the last chain,
continue on the other side of the chain, sc, inc in the last chain (8)
Round 2. Inc, sc, 3 inc, sc, 2 inc (14)
Round 3. Sc, inc, sc, (sc, inc) x3, sc, (sc, inc) x2 (20)
Rounds 4-8. Sc around (20)
Round 9. sc, dec, sc, (sc, dec) x3, sc, (sc, dec) x2 (14). Fold the ears in two and sc the two
side together with 7 sc. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Assembly
Sew the muzzle in the middle of the face, just below the eyes
Embroider eyebrows with black embroidery thread
Sew the ears to the head
Sew the body to the head
Sew the arms in place on the sides of the body
Sew the legs in place on the sides of the body bewteen rounds 6-7.

We finished our pattern. You can send the finished pattern to me on facebook, instagram and pinterest.

https://www.facebook.com/amigurumi.sdk.today/
https://www.instagram.com/amigurumifreepatternss/
https://www.pinterest.com/crochetblogkb/

More Amigurumi Puppy İdeas

Materials
I use fine cotton yarn (165 m per 50 g or 181 yards per 1.75 oz), 2.5 mm crochet hook and hypoallergic
fiberfill for stuffing. In a small box there are 6 mm safety eyes (though you can use beads, tiny buttons
or you can embroider eyes), black thread to embroider the nose, several pins and a yarn needle. I use
fine section-dyed merino yarn for the pants, and cotton black yarn for the hat. When it comes to pants,
it’s better that your yarn was thinner than the yarn for toy (something about 220 m per 50 g), so that
the garment fabric was not too bulky or boardy. Also, in the box there are 2 tiny buttons for the pants
and some thread to sew them. I use elastic thread to secure the hat.
My crocheting style is quite tight, so keep in mind your own crocheting manner as well as the yarn
weight and the hook size before you start crocheting.

Abbreviations
MR – amigurumi magic ring
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
hdc – half-double crochet
dc – double crochet
sl.st. – slip stitch
st – stitch
sts – stitches
[] x number – repeat stitches in parenthesis indicated number of times
inc – increase (crochet 2 sc sts in one st)
dec – invisible decrease (insert hook in front loop of next st, do not yarn over but immediately insert
hook in front loop of the next st, yarn over and pull the loop through both front loops (you have 2 loops
on your hook now), yarn over and pull the loop through both loops on your hook. The invisible decrease
is done).
MC – main colour
CC – contrast colour
Rnd – round

HEAD
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR, join with a sl.st. in 1st sc.
Rnd 2: inc in each st (12 sts).
Rnd 3: [sc, inc] x 6 (18 sts).
Rnd 4: [inc, 2 sc] x 6 (24 sts).
Rnd 5: [3 sc, inc] x 6 (30 sts).
Rnd 6: [2 sc, inc, 2 sc] x 6 (36 sts).
Rnd 7: [5 sc, inc] x 6 (42 sts).
Rnd 8: [3 sc, inc, 3 sc] x 6 (48 sts).
Rnds 9-18: 48 sc (48 sts).
Rnd 19: [3 sc, dec, 3 sc] x 6 (42 sts).
Note: In the next Rnd and in the Rnd 22 I will add an extra sc
in the beginning of the round to shift the starting point for a
neater look, it will not count in the end stitch count. If you
prefer not to add the extra st just skip it and crochet as usual.
Rnd 20: sc (does not count as st in round total); [5 sc, dec] x 6
(36 sts).
Rnds 21: [2 sc, dec, 2 sc] x 6 (30 sts).
Now, if you use safety eyes, it’s the right time to secure them
on the wrong side of the head. Find the position of the eyes
that seems perfect to you, and secure the eyes with the washers. Positioning the eyes a little bit higher and closer to each other provides a more classic, traditional look, while positioning them lower and
wider gives a more kawaii look. Experiment and find your own way!
Rnd 22: sc (does not count as st in round total); [3 sc, dec] x 6 (24 sts).
It’s the right time to start adding some stuffing. Continue adding stuffing as you go.
Rnd 23: [sc, dec, sc] x 6 (18 sts).
Work sc and then sl.st., cut yarn and fasten off.
The head is ready!

EARS (make 2)
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR, join with a sl.st. in 1st sc.
Rnd 2: [sc, inc, sc] x 2 (8 sts).
Rnd 3: [3 sc, inc] x 2 (10 sts).
Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc, 2 sc] x 2 (12 sts).
Rnd 5: [3 sc, inc] x 3 (15 sts).
Rnd 6: [2 sc, inc, 2 sc]] x 3 (18) sts.
Make a sl.st, and cut yarn leaving a long tail to sew the ear
later.
The ears are ready!

SNOUT
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. join with a sl.st. in 1st sc.
Rnd 2: inc in each st (12 sts).
Rnd 3: Working in back loops only, make 12 sc. Make a sl.st, and cut
yarn leaving a long tail to sew the snout later.
Now, go back to the front loops of Rnd 3. Hold the snout with the
right side facing you, insert the hook from inside to the outside, and
work a Rnd of slip stitches across the front loops. Cut the yarn and
sew in the end. I also prefer to embroider the nose immediately (tiny
black stitches), however, you can leave this step for later.

LEGS AND BODY
Leg 1:
Rnd 1: 7 sc in MR, join with a sl.st. in 1st sc.
Rnds 2 – 3: 7 sc (7 sts).
Make a sl.st., cut yarn and fasten off.
Leg 2:
Rnd 1: 7 sc in MR, join with a sl.st. in 1st sc.
Rnds 2 – 3: 7 sc (7 sts).
Make 3 sc and a sl.st. Do not cut yarn. Chain 2
Now, let’s form the BODY:
Work a sc just left from the sl.st. of Leg 1, thus joining Leg 2 to Leg 1. Continue working around both legs
and both sides of the chain:
7 sc around Leg 1 + 2 sc on one side of the ch + 7 sc around Leg 2 + 2 sc on the opposite side of the chain
Rnd 1: 18 sts. Please, note that here we have to work sc stitches in sl.st. of legs 1 & 2. You may use a smaller hook to work those sts, and then go back to the main hook.
Rnd 2: [inc, 2 sc] x 6 (24 sts).
Rnd 3: [3 sc, inc] x 6 (30 sts).
Rnd 4: 30 sc (30 sts).
The next Rnd is the Rnd with a tail.
Rnd 5: 13 sc, ch 7, 6 sl.sts. across the chain, sc in next st of the
body, 16 sc to finish the body Rnd (30 sts).
In the next Rnd, be attentive and don’t skip the sts from the
both side of the tail (sts 13 & 14) or don’t work those stitch
twice! See the picture on the right. The picture on the right
shows how the finished Rnd 5 looks from the back.
Rnds 6-10: 30 sc (30 sts).
Slightly stuff the legs while working those Rnds.
Rnd 11: 21 sc (we still have 30 sts altogether, but just leave this Rnd unfinished and begin a new Rnd
starting from this point).
Rnd 12: [3 sc, dec] x 6 (24 sts).Here you can start stuffing the body and add more stuff as you go. I prefer to use not really much
stuffing, so that the body just kept the shape and was not bulky.
Rnd 13: [sc, dec, sc] x 6 (18 sts).
Make sl.st., and cut yarn leaving a long tail to sew the head later.
The body is ready!

ARMS (make 2)
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR, join with a sl.st. in 1st sc.
Rnds 2 – 6: 6 sc (6 sts).
I add just a small amount of stuff in lower part of the arm, so that
it had a shape but was not too bulky.
Fold the arms in half so that the last loop on the hook was on your
right and work a joining Rnd of sc stitches, trapping sc stitches on
the both sides of the arm (I made 2 sc altogether). Cut yarn leaving
a long tail for sewing.
The arms are ready!

ASSEMBLY
Before sewing any detail, find a perfect position and secure it with pins. And do not forget to
experiment! Remember that you always can, for example, place the snout higher or lower, or change
the distance between the ears. All these provide individuality to your toy.
I prefer to sew in the following order:
1) Head (the head is very easy to sew because you can work stitch to stitch).
2) Ears.
3) Snout (you may add some stuff while sewing).
4) Arms (I sew the arms between the body’s rounds 12 and 13).
So, the pig is ready and if you wish you can even dress it.

PANTS
Pants crocheting process is very similar to the body’s one. Work with the yarn for pants.
Part 1
Ch 10 and join to crochet in rounds being careful not to twist the sts. Work a Rnd of sc around the chain
(10 sc) and make a sl.st. in 1st sc. Cut the yarn and fasten off.
Part 2
Ch 10 and join to crochet in rounds being careful not to twist the sts. Work a Rnd of sc around the chain
(10 sc), then work 4 sc and make a sl.st. Do not cut yarn, but instead ch 2 and join with sc to Part 1 just
left from the sl.st. of Part 1.
Begin the joining Rnd: 10 sc of Part 1 + 2 sc on one side of chain + 10 sc of Part 2 + 2 sc on the other side
of chain =
Rnd 1: 24 sc (24 sts).
Rnd 2: [3 sc, inc] x 6 (30 sts).
Rnd 3: [7 sc, inc, 7 sc] x 2 (32 sts).
In the next Rnd we are going to make a hole for the tail.
Rnd 4: 14 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, 16 sts to finish the Rnd (32 sts).
Rnds 5&6: 32 sc (32 sts).
In the next Rnd we are going to make suspenders.
Rnd 7: sc 13, ch 19, sc in 5th ch from hook (this is the button
loop, so try to pull the button through it and adjust the loop size
as necessary), then work sl.sts. across the rest of the chain and
join with a sc just left from the suspender. Work 4 sc, and make
the 2nd suspender in the same way. Join with a sc just left from
the suspender, sl.st. in next st.
Before you cut yarn and fasten off try the pants on your pig and
make sure the suspenders fit good. My design supposes that
suspenders are crossed on the pig’s back, however, you can
make it to your taste. Adjust the suspenders length if necessary,
then fasten off. Find the perfect position for the buttons and
sew them.
The pants are ready!

HAT
Work with the hat yarn.
Main part
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR, join with a sl.st. in 1st sc.
Rnd 2: inc in every st (12 sts).
Rnd 3: [inc, sc] x 6 (18 sts).
Rnd 4: work through back loops only, 18 sc (18 sts).
Rnd 5: [dec, sc] x 6 (12 sts).
Rnd 6: 12 sc (12 sts).
Rnd 7: work in front loops only, [inc, sc] x 6 (18 sts).
Rnd 8: [inc, 2 sc] x 6 (24 sts).
Make a sl.st, cut yarn and fasten off.
Bottom part
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR, join with a sl.st. in 1st sc.
Rnd 2: inc in every st (12 sts).
Make a sl.st. and cut yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.
Now, try elastic thread around the pig’s head and measure the right
length (not too loose and not too tight). Make a knot and cut the
thread.
If you don’t have elastic thread, you can crochet the chain of the
necessary length and work across it with slip stitches or you can just
sew the hat to the pig’s head.
Assemble the hat.
Working through the stitches of the last Rnd of the bottom part and
the back loops of Rnd 7 of the main part, sew the details together.
Somewhere in the middle of the sewing process insert the elastic
thread in the hat to hide the knot inside it and to secure the thread.
Also, slightly stuff the hat as you go.

We finished our pattern. You can send the finished pattern to me on facebook, instagram and pinterest.

https://www.facebook.com/amigurumi.sdk.today/
https://www.instagram.com/amigurumifreepatternss/
https://www.pinterest.com/crochetblogkb/

More Amigurumi Pig İdeas

Materials
Brown, Light Brown, Black, White, and
Cream #4 worsted weight (Aran) yarn
(you will need aprx. 350 yds of the body color)
for unicorn version, White, Lavender, Yellow,
Blue, and Pink yarn
Scissors
Yarn needle
Stitch marker
3.5 mm crochet hook
Stuffing

US Terms
Single Crochet : sc
Double Crochet : dc
Slip Stitch : sl st
Decrease : dec
– single crochet 2 stitches together
Increase : inc
– work 2 single crochet stitches in the
same stitch

Body
-light brown yarn/white for unicorn
Rnd. 1: Make adjustable ring (6)
Rnd. 2: sc 2x in each stitch (12)
Rnd. 3: sc 1x, inc 6x (18)
Rnd. 4: sc 2x, inc 6x (24)
Rnd. 5: sc 3x, inc 6x (30)
Rnd. 6: sc 4x, inc 6x (36)
Rnd. 7: sc 5x, inc 6x (42)
Rnd. 8: sc 6x, inc 6x (48)
Rnd. 9-27: sc in each stitch (48)
Rnd. 28: sc 6x, dec 6x (42)
Rnd. 29: sc 5x, dec 6x (36)
Rnd. 30: sc 4x, dec 6x (30)
Rnd. 31: sc 3x, dec 6x (24)
Rnd. 32: sc 2x, dec 6x (18)
-stuff –
Rnd. 33: sc 1x, dec 6x (12)
Rnd. 34: dec (6)
slip stitch, pull yarn thru the stitch leaving a long tail
-using the long tail sew the opening closed

Legs (make 4)
-start with dark brown yarn/ lavender for unicornRnd. 1: Make adjustable ring (6)
Rnd. 2: sc 2x in each stitch (12)
Rnd. 3: sc 1x, inc 6x (18)
Rnd. 4: sc 2x, inc 6x (24)
Rnd. 5: sc 3x, inc 6x (30)
Rnd. 6-8: sc in each stitch (30)
-change to light brown yarn/ white for unicornRnd. 9: sc in each stitch (30)
Rnd. 10: sc 3x, dec 6x (24)
Rnd. 11-13: sc in each stitch (24)
Rnd. 14: sc 2x, dec 6x (18)
Rnd. 15-23: sc in each stitch (18)
slip stitch, pull yarn thru the stitch leaving a
long tail
-stuff-

Ears
-light brown yarn/ white for unicornRnd. 1: Make adjustable ring (6)
Rnd. 2: sc in each stitch (6)
Rnd. 3: sc 1x, inc 3x (9)
Rnd. 4: sc 2x, inc 3x, sc last stitch (12)
slip stitch, pull yarn thru the stitch leaving a long tail
Eyes
-white yarn
-blue yarn for unicorn as white will not show
up on a white body
Rnd. 1: Make adjustable ring (6) (5 white and 1 black)
-on the 6th adjustable ring stitch, change to black yarn
-sl st

Head
-start with cream yarn/white for unicorn
Rnd. 1: Make adjustable ring (6)
Rnd. 1: sc 2x in each stitch (12)
Rnd. 2: sc 1x, inc 6x (18)
Rnd. 3: sc 2x, inc 6x (24)
Rnd. 4: sc 3x, inc 6x (30)
Rnd. 5: sc 4x, inc 6x (36)
Rnd. 6-9: sc in each stitch (36)
Rnd. 10: sc 5x, inc 6x (42)
Rnd. 11: sc in each stitch (42)
-change to light brown yarn/continue with white for unicorn
Rnd. 12-13: sc in each stitch (42)
Rnd. 14: sc 6x, inc 6x (48)
-this next round creates a raised area on one side of the head (the forehead), you will be
working 6 increases in the round, however they will not be evenly spaced like they have
been in the previous rounds. I have tried to clarify the placement of the increase stitches
below
Rnd. 15: sc 17x, inc, sc 2x, inc, sc 3x, inc, sc 2x, inc, sc 17x, inc, sc 1x, inc (54)
– You have just made the forehead area where you will add the eyes later.
Rnd. 16: sc 8x, inc 6x (60)
Rnd. 17-19: sc in each stitch (60)
Rnd. 20: sc 8x, dec 6x (54)
Rnd. 21-22: sc in each stitch (54)
Rnd. 23: sc 7x, dec 6x (48)
Rnd. 24: sc in each stitch (48)
Rnd. 25: sc 6x, dec 6x (42)
Rnd. 26: sc 5x, dec 6x (36)
Rnd. 27: sc 4x, dec 6x (30)
Rnd. 28: sc 3x, dec 6x (24)
Rnd. 29: sc 2x, dec 6x (18)
Rnd. 30: sc 1x, dec 6x (12)
Rnd. 31: dec 6x (6)
slip stitch, pull yarn thru the stitch leaving a long tail

Unicorn Horn
You will work all the stitches in the back loop only (blo) to create a spiral ridge going
around the horn- use yellow yarn
Rnd. 1: make adjustable ring (6)
Rnd. 2: sc in the back loop only in each stitch (6)
Rnd. 3: sc blo 1x, inc blo 3x (9)
Rnd. 4-8: sc blo in each stitch (9)
Rnd. 9: sc blo 2x, inc blo 3x (12)
Rnd. 10-11: sc blo in each stitch (12)
Slip stitch and pull yarn thru leaving a long tail

Assembly
– fold the ears to create little pockets and stitch
ears on the sides of the head in the 12th Rnd.
up from the cream/light brown color change.
Be sure the head is positioned so the raised side
of the head is on top and the ears are 6 stitches
apart from each other.
-if making a unicorn sew the horn to the
forehead between the ears before adding hair

– You can begin to add hair now, or wait until
you have sewn the eyes and neck in place. Cut
about 100, 10 inch strands of dark brown yarn
or blue, pink, and lavender for unicorn.
An easy way to do this is to wrap the yarn
around something and then cut through all the
layers at once.

– To add the hair insert your hook into the sc
stitches on the head and pull the center of a
piece of yarn through the stitch and then loop
it through itself. Repeat all the way down the
head and neck. Cut the yarn pieces about 2-3
inches long as desired to look natural

Neck
-light brown yarn/white for unicorn
Rnd. 1: Make adjustable ring (6)
Rnd. 2: sc 2x in each stitch (12)
Rnd. 3: sc 1x, inc 6x (18)
Rnd. 4: sc 2x, inc 6x (24)
Rnd. 5: sc 3x, inc 6x (30)
Rnd. 6-7: sc in each stitch (30)
Rnd. 8: sc 4x, inc 6x (36)
– sew the neck to the head centered under the ears about 6 rounds back from the
cream/brown color line.
– sew the eyes 6 rounds in front of the ears, centered on the head making sure the black
pupils are facing forward.
– continue adding hair down the back of the head.
– sew the neck to the body 3 rows up from the body’s adjustable ring, making sure to stuff it
firmly before finishing.

Tail Base
Use dark brown/lavender for unicorn
Rnd. 1: Make adjustable ring (6)
Rnd. 1: sc 2x in each stitch (12)
Rnd. 2-3: sc in each stitch (12)
Rnd. 4: sc 1x, inc 6x (18)
Rnd. 5: sc in each stitch (18)
Rnd. 6: dec until closed
sl st, and pull yarn through leaving a long tail
-stuff and then using the long tail stitch the end shut
-sew the small end of the tail base to the back of the horse body sticking up and out.
-using the same technique as on the head add hair strands to the tail base until it looks
full. Cut the strands about 4-5 inches long as desired.

– sew the legs to the bottom “corners” of the body. Space them so they are all the way at the
front and back of the body as far as they can go.
– using light brown yarn stitch slanted nostrils on the front of the nose 6 stitches apart.

We finished our pattern. You can send the finished pattern to me on facebook, instagram and pinterest.

https://www.facebook.com/amigurumi.sdk.today/
https://www.instagram.com/amigurumifreepatternss/
https://www.pinterest.com/crochetblogkb/

More Amigurumi Horse İdeas

YARN USED
Yarn size 3.00mm (Fingering) in the following colors:
Light peach
Yellow
Yarn size 4.00mm (DK) in the following colors:
Dark Purple

OTHER MATERIAL
2.00mm hook
3.00mm hook
Tapestry needle
Black safety eyes (I used 9mm safety eyes)
Stuffing
Scissors

STITCHES
Ch: chain
Slst: slip stitch
Sc: single crochet
Hdc: half double crochet
Dc: double crochet
Inc: increase
Dec: decrease
Incdc: increase with double crochet
FLO: work in front loop only
BLO: work in back loop only

TIPS
Use a stich marker and count your stitches
Remember to use the same yarn size for the body and the dress
Each round is worked in a continuous spiral. Do not join rounds with slip stitch or turn
unless stated otherwise.
Work through the entire stitch unless stated otherwise
Read through the pattern completely before beginning to crochet.

ARMS, LEGS AND BODY
Work in a continuous spiral. Make all these part
with light peach yarn 3.00mm and 2.00mm
hook

ARMS
Make two.
Rnd1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd2-Rnd12: 6sc (6) 11 rounds
Fasten off leaving a short tail.

LEGS
Make two.
Rnd1: 7sc in magic ring (7)
Rnd2-Rnd18: 7sc (7) 17 rounds
First leg: Fasten off leaving a short tail.
Second leg: don’t cut the yarn, keep on working
to join the legs.
I worked legs very tight and I didn’t stuff them. If
you need stuffing, do it now!

BODY
Rnd19: 4sc in the leg you are working
(the second made), chain 2, 7sc in the
other leg (the first made), 2sc in back
side of the chain, 3sc in the leg (the
second made) (18)
See purple yarn to know how to join the leg
Do not change color (it is only to make it clearer)
Rnd20: 18sc (18)
Rnd21: (2sc, 1inc) x3 (this will be her
bottom), 9sc (21)
Rnd22-Rnd24: 21sc (21) 3 rounds
Rnd25: (2sc, 1dec) x3, 9sc (18)
Rnd26: 18 sc (18)
Rnd27: (7sc, 1dec) x2 (16)
Rnd28: (6sc, 1dec) x2 (14)
Now join the arms:
Rnd29: 2sc, 6sc in the first arm, 8sc in
the body, 6sc in the second arm, 4sc in
the body (26)
Rnd30: (11sc, 1dec) x2 (24)
Rnd31: (2sc, 1dec) x6 (18)
Stuff the body. Keep stuffing as you close the
body
Rnd32: (1sc, 1dec) x6 (12)
Rnd33: 6dec (6)
Rnd34- Rnd35: 6sc (6)
Rnd36: 6inc (12)
Rnd37: 12inc (24)
Rnd38: (1sc, 1inc) x12 (36)
Rnd39: (5sc, 1inc) x12 (42)
Rnd40- Rnd49: 42sc (42) 10 rounds
Stop and place the safety eyes between round
42 and round 43 8 stitches apart. You can
embroider the eyes if you wish. Pay attention to
put them in the front part.
TIPS: I used half of a toothpick to make the
neck stronger
Rnd50: (5sc, 1dec) x6 (36)
Rnd51: (4sc, 1dec) x6 (30)
Rnd52: (3sc, 1dec) x6 (24)
Rnd53: (2sc, 1dec) x6 (18)
Stuff the head. Keep stuffing as you close the
head
Rnd54: (1sc, 1dec) x6 (12)
Rnd55: 6dec (6)
Cut the yarn leaving a long tail to close your
work. Make a knot and hide the yarn inside the
doll’s body.

EARS
Make 2
Chain 2, 4sc in the second loop from
hook
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Sew the ears 5 stitches from the eyes, between
round 42 and 44.

DRESS
Work with yellow yarn size 3.00 and 2.00mm
hook. Start working in rows, we will join the
round later. At the end of each row, chain 1,
turn your work and start from second loop from
hook
Rw1: chain 29
Now we will create two holes for the sleeves
Rw2: 1inc, 2sc, 1inchdc, skip 7 stitches,
1inchdc, 4sc, 1inchdc, skip 7 stitches,
1inchdc, 2sc, 1inc (20)
Rw3-Rw6: 20sc (20) 4 rows
Now we will crochet the skirt: join the round with
a slip stitch, continue working in continuous
spiral.
Rnd1: FLO 20incdc (40)
Rnd2: 40dc (40)
Rnd3: 10incdc, 20inc, 10incdc (80)
Rnd4: 20incdc, 40inc, 20incdc (160)
Slst and fasten off. Hide the yarn in the work.

PETTICOAT
Work with dark purple yarn size 4.00mm and
2.00mm hook. Start working in rounds in back
loops of skirt’s rnd1. Start in back side of the
dress!
Rnd1: BLO 20dc (20)
Rnd2: (1dc, 1incdc) x10 (30)
Rnd3: 8dc, 15sc, 7dc (30)
Rnd4: 8incdc, 15inc, 7incdc (60)
Rnd5: 18incdc, 30inc, 14incdc (120)
SlSt and fasten off. Hide the yarn in the work.

FLOWERS
Make 2
Work with dark purple yarn size 4.00mm and
2.00mm hook. dress
Rnd1: 3sc in a magic ring
Rnd2: (chain2, 1slst in the next stitch) x3
Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing
Dress the doll and sew the back closure
together
Sew the two flowers at the base of the dress
straps.

HAIR
Work with dark purple yarn size 4.00mm and
3.00mm hook.
Start working in a continuous spiral, then we will
work every strand of hair in rows.
Rnd1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd2: 6inc (12)
Rnd3: (1sc, 1inc) x6 (18)
Rnd4: (2sc, 1inc) x6 (24)
Now start working the strands:
St1-St2: chain 6, start from second loop
from hook, 5sc, slst in BLO of the next
stitch of round 4
St3-St4: chain 6, start from second loop
from hook, 5sc, slst in the next stitch of
round 4
St5: chain 21, start from second loop
from hook, 20sc, slst in round 4
St6-st14 (9 strands): chain 42, start
from third loop from hook, 40hdc, slst in
round 4 skipping one loop.
St15: chain 21, start from second loop
from hook, 20sc, slst in round 4
St16-St17: chain 6, start from second
loop from hook, 5sc, slst in FLO of the
next stitch of round 4
Fasten off
Sew the hair to the top of the head

ODANGO
Make 2. Work with dark purple yarn size
4.00mm and 3.00mm hook.
Work in a continuous spiral
Rnd1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd2: 6inc (12)
Rnd3: (1sc, 1inc) x6 (18)
Rnd4: (2sc, 1inc) x6 (24)
Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing
Sew them to the top of the head
Complete your doll with a yellow ribbon in her
neck and a ribbon in her right feet.

We finished our pattern. You can send the finished pattern to me on facebook, instagram and pinterest.

https://www.facebook.com/amigurumi.sdk.today/
https://www.instagram.com/amigurumifreepatternss/
https://www.pinterest.com/crochetblogkb/

More Amigurumi Doll İdeas

YARN USED
Light peach yarn size 3.00 mm (cotton fingering)
Yellw yarn size 3.00mm (cotton fingering)
Red yarn size 3.00mm (cotton fingering)
Blue pink yarn size 3.00mm (cotton fingering)
White yarn size 3.00mm (cotton fingering)
Black yarn size 4.00 (acrylic DK)
White and black yarn to embroider eyes

MATERIAL
2.00mm hook
3.00mm hook
Tapestry needle
Black safety eyes (I used 9mm safety eyes)
Stuffing
Scissor

STITCHES
Ch: chain
Slst: slip stitch
Sc: single crochet
Hdc: half double crochet
Dc: double crochet
Inc: increase
Dec: decrease
Inchdc: increase with half double crochet
FLO: work in front loop only
BLO: work in back loop only

TIPS
Use a stich marker
Pay attention to use the same yarn size for the body and the dresses.
Each round is worken in continuous spiral. Do not join rounds with slip stitch or turn
unless stated otherwise.
Work trought the entire stitch unless stated otherwise

ARMS, LEGS AND BODY
Work all these part with light peach yarn size
3.00mm and 2.00mm hook.
Work in continuous spiral.
ARMS
Make two.
Rnd1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd2-Rnd3: 6sc (6)
Rnd 4: 6sc (6)
Rnd5: (1sc, 1inc) x3 (9)
Rnd6-Rnd7: 9 sc (9)
Rnd 8: (1sc, 1dec) x3 (6)
Rnd9-Rnd12: 6sc (6)

LEGS
Make two.
Rnd1: 7sc in magic ring (7)
Rnd2-Rnd18: 7sc (7)
First leg: Fasten off and pull out the yarn
Second leg: don’t cut the yarn, keep on working
to join the legs

BODY
Rnd19: 4sc in the leg you are working
(the second made), 2ch, 7sc in the other
leg (the first made), 2sc in back side of the
chain, 3sc in the leg (the second made)
(18)
Rnd20: 18sc (18)
Rnd21: (2sc, 1inc) x3 (this will be the
bottom part), 9sc (21)
Rnd22-Rnd24: 21sc (21)
Rnd25: (2sc, 1dec) x3, 9sc (18)
Rnd26: 18 sc (18)
Rnd27: (7sc, 1dec) x2 (16)
Rnd28: (6sc, 1dec) x2 (14)
Now join the arms:
Rnd29: 2sc, 6sc in the first arm, 8sc in the
body, 6sc in the second arm, 4sc in the
body (26)
Rnd30: (11sc, 1dec) x2 (24)
Rnd31: (2sc, 1dec) x6 (18)
Stuff the body. Keep stuffing while you close the
body
Rnd32: (1sc, 1dec) x6 (12)
Rnd33: 6dec (6)
Rnd34: 6sc (6)
Rnd35: 6sc (6)
Rnd36: 6inc (12)
Rnd37: 12inc (24)
Rnd38: (1sc, 1inc) x12 (36)
Rnd39: (5sc, 1inc) x6 (42)
Rnd40-Rnd49: 42sc (42)
Stop and place the safety eyes between round
42 and round 43 8 stitches apart. You can
embroider the eyes if you want. Pay attention to
put them in the front part.
TIPS: I use an half toothpick to make the neck
stronger
Rnd50: (5sc, 1dec) x6 (36)
Rnd51: (4sc, 1dec) x6 (30)
Rnd52: (3sc, 1dec) x6 (24)
Rnd53: (2sc, 1dec) x6 (18)
Stuff the head. Keep stuffing while you close the
head
Rnd54: (1sc, 1dec) x6 (12)
Rnd55: 6dec (6)
Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for closing your
work. Make a knot and hide the yarn inside the
doll’s body.

EARS
Make 2
Chain 2, 4sc in the second loop from hook
Sew the ears 5 stitches from the eyes, between
round 42 and 44.

DRESS
T-SHIRT
Work with blue yarn size 3.00mm and 2.00mm
hook. Start working in rows. At the end of the
row, chain 1, turn your work and start from
second loop from hook
Rw1: chain 29
Rw2: 28sc (28)
Now we will create two holes for the sleeves
Rw3: 1inc, 2sc, 1inchdc, skip 7 stitches,
1inchdc, 4sc, 1inchdc, skip 7 stitches,
1inchdc, 2sc, 1inc (20)
Rw4-Rw6: 20sc (20)
Fasten off
Return in Row 1 and make 28 slst with white
yarn in the other side of the chain

SLEEVES
Work in round in the holes created in rw3
Rnd1-Rnd2: 8sc (8)
Rnd3: 8 slst with red yarn

OVERALLS
Work with yellow yarn size 3.00mm and 2.00mm
hook. We will start with trousers leg
Rnd1: chain 12, then join the round with
a slst
Rnd2-Rnd3: 12sc (12)
Fasten off
Then, make a second leg like the first but don’t
fastent off, keep on working the overalls to join
this two pieces
Rnd 4: 6sc in the leg you are working (the
second made), 2ch, 12sc in the other leg
(the first made), 2sc in back side of the
chain, 6sc in the leg (the second made)
(28)
Rnd5: 28sc (28)
Rnd6: (5sc, 1dec) x4 (24)
Rnd7: (4sc, 1dec) x4 (20)
Rnd8-Rnd10: 20sc (20)
Now we will work the high part in row (start every
row from second loop from hook):
Rw1: 10sc, ch1 and turn
Rw2: 8sc, ch1 and turn
Rw3: 1dec, 4sc, 1dec, ch1 and turn
Rw4-Rw5: 6sc, ch1 and turn
Rw6: 6sc
Fasten off. You can embroider with red yarn the
pants.

SUSPENDERS
Work in the back of overalls, skipping 3 stitches
from the part worked in row. Make one on the left
part and one on the right part.
Rw1: chain 20

BOOTS
Work with yellow yarn size 3.00mm and 2.00mm
hook.
Rnd1: chain 6, start from second loop
from hook, 5sc, 5sc in the other side of the
chain (10)
Rnd2: 10sc (10)
Rnd3: 1sc, 1inc, 7sc, 1inc
Rnd4: 12sc (12)
Rnd 5: 2dec, 8sc (10)
Rnd6: 10sc (10)
Slst and fasten off
Dress the doll: sew the T-shirt on the back, then
put on the overalls and sew suspenders in the
front part crossing them on the back

HAIR
Work all these part with black yarn size 4.00mm
and 3.00mm hook.
Start working in continuous spiral, then we will
work every strands of hair in row.
Rnd1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd2: 6inc (12)
Rnd3: (1sc, 1inc) x6 (18)
Rnd4: (2sc, 1inc) x6 (24)
Now start working the strands:
St1: chain 8, return with 7sc, slst in BLO
of the next stitch of round 4
St2: chain 10, return with 9sc, slst in BLO
of the next stitch of round 4
St3: chain 12, return with 11sc, slst in the
next stitch of round 4
St4: chain 21, (1sc, 1inc) x4, 12sc, slst in
the next stitch of round 4
St5- St13 (9 strands): chain 22, start
from third loop from hook, (1hdc, 1inchdc)
x4, 12sc, slst in round 4, skipping one
loop
St14: chain 21, (1sc, 1inc) x4, 12sc, slst
in the next stitch of round 4
St15: chain 10, return with 9sc
St16: work on front loop of st1: chain 8,
return with 7sc, slst in FLO of the next
stitch of round 4
St17: work on front loop of st2: chain 10,
return with 9sc, slst in FLO of the next
stitch of round 4
Fasten off
Sew round 1 of the hair on the top of doll’s head.
The middle of the face (where should be th nose)
is between st1 and st2. Part the hair between
st15 and st1, then sew the other strands. I sewed
strand 4 in front of the ear, and strand 14 behind,
for an asymmetrical look! Strands 16 and 17
make the bangs thicker.

RIBBON
Work with red yarn size 3.00mm and 2.00mm
hook.
Rw1: chain 17
Rw2: 2sc, 4dc, 4sc, 4dc, 2sc
Fasten off. Sew the ends together and knot
some yarn in the middle of this stripe to create
the ribbon. Sew it on the top of the hair.

We finished our pattern. You can send the finished pattern to me on facebook, instagram and pinterest.

https://www.facebook.com/amigurumi.sdk.today/
https://www.instagram.com/amigurumifreepatternss/
https://www.pinterest.com/crochetblogkb/

More Amigurumi Snow White İdeas

Materials
Yarn: Scheepjes Catona, 50g = 125m. 2 skein Green: 392, 1 skein Blue: 173
Hook: 2,5mm
Safety eyes: 9mm
Size of finished Poof: Approximately 18cm

Abbreviations
St = stitch
Sl st = slip stitch
Ch = chain
Sc = single crochet
Inc = increase (2sc in one st)
Dec = (2sc together)
Dc = double crochet
Bo = bobble stitch
stars = repeat the instructions between the stars given the number of times

HEAD – green
Rnd 1. 6sc in a magic ring = 6
Rnd 2. inc x6 = 12
Rnd 3. sc in next st, inc x6 = 18
Rnd 4. sc in next 2st, inc x6 = 24
Rnd 5. sc in next 3st, inc x6 = 30
Rnd 6. sc in next 4st, inc x6 = 36
Rnd 7. sc in next 5st, inc x6 = 42
Rnd 8. sc in next 6st, inc x6 = 48
Rnd 9. sc in next 7st, inc x6 = 54
Rnd 10. sc in next 8st, inc x6 = 60
Rnd 11. sc in next 9st, inc x6 = 66
Rnd 12-20. 66sc
Rnd 21. sc in next 9st, dec x6 = 60
Rnd 22. sc in next 8st, dec x6 =54
Rnd 23. sc in next 7st, dec x6 = 48
Rnd 24. sc in next 6st, dec x6 = 42
Rnd 25. sc in next 5st, dec x6 = 36
Rnd 26. sc in next 4st, dec x6 = 30
Rnd 27. sc in next 3st, dec x6 = 24
Rnd 28. sc in next 2st, dec x6 = 18
Cut yarn and fasten off

NOSE – green
Rnd 1. ch4, join together with a sl st, ch1, 2sc, ch4, 2sc x4, sl st
Rnd 2. ch1, sc in the same st as sl st, 1sc, 1sc ch2 1sc in chain, 2sc, 1sc ch2 1sc in chain x3, sl st
Rnd 3. ch1, sc in the same st as sl st, 2sc, 1sc ch2 1sc in chain, 4sc, 1sc ch2 1sc in chain x3, 1sc, sl st
Rnd 4. ch1, sc in the same st as sl st, 3sc, 1sc ch2 1sc in chain, 6sc, 1sc ch2 1sc in chain x3, 2sc, sl st
Rnd 5. ch1, sc in the same st as sl st, 4sc, 2sc in chain, 8sc, 2sc in chain x3, 3sc, sl st.
Rnd 6-11. ch1, sc in same st as sl st, 39sc, sl st = 40sc
Cut yarn but leave a tail to attach the nose to the head

EARS – green
Rnd 1. 6sc in a magic ring
Rnd 2. 6sc
Rnd 3. inc x6 = 12
Rnd 4. 12sc
Rnd 5. 12sc
Rnd 6. sc in next st, inc x6 = 18
Rnd 7. 18sc
Rnd 8. 18sc
Rnd 9. sc in next 2st, inc x6 = 24
Rnd 10. 24sc
Cut yarn but leave a tail to attach the ears to the head

BODY – green
Rnd 1. 6sc in a magic ring = 6
Rnd 2. inc x6 = 12
Rnd 3. sc in next st, inc x6 = 18
Rnd 4. sc in next 2st, inc x6 = 24
Rnd 5. sc in next 3st, inc x6 = 30
Rnd 6. sc in next 4st, inc x6 = 36
Rnd 7. sc in next 5st, inc x6 = 42
Rnd 8. sc in next 6st, inc x6 = 48
Rnd 9. sc in next 7st, inc x6 = 54
Rnd 10-16. 54sc
Rnd 17. sc in next 7st, dec x6 = 48
Rnd 18. 48sc
Rnd 19. 48sc
Rnd 20. sc in next 6st, dec x6 = 42
Rnd 21. 42sc
Rnd 22. 42sc
Rnd 23. sc in next 5st, dec x6 = 36
Rnd 24. 36sc
Rnd 25. 36sc
Rnd 26. sc in next 4st, dec x6 =30
Rnd 27. 30sc
Rnd 28. 30sc
Rnd 29. sc in next 3st, dec x6 = 24
Rnd 30. 24sc
Rnd 31. 24sc
Rnd 32. sc in next 2st, dec x6 = 18
Rnd 33. 18sc
Rnd 34. 18sc
Cut off yarn but leave a long tail to attach the body and the head together.

STOMAGE – blue
Rnd 1. ch4, sc in second st from needle, 2sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 2. 3sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 3. 3sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 4. Inc, 1sc, inc, ch1, turn
Rnd 5. 5sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 6. 5sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 7. Inc, 3sc, inc, ch1, turn
Rnd 8. 7sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 9. 7sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 10. 7sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 11. Inc, 5sc, inc, ch1, turn
Rnd 12. 9sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 13. 9sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 14. Inc, 7sc, inc, ch1, turn
Rnd 15. 11sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 16. 11sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 17. Inc, 9sc, inc, ch1, turn
Rnd 18-22. 13sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 23. Dec, 9sc, dec, ch1, turn
Rnd 24. 11sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 25. Dec, 7sc, dec, ch1, turn
Rnd 26. 9sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 27. Dec, 5sc, dec, ch1, turn
Rnd 28. Crochet a row with sc around the stomage.
Cut off yarn but leave a long tail to attach the stomage on the body.

TAIL – green
Rnd 1. 6sc in a magic ring
Rnd 2. sc I next st, inc x3 = 9
Rnd 3. 9sc
Rnd 4. sc in next 2st, inc x3 = 12
Rnd 5. 12sc
Rnd 6. sc in next 3st, inc x3 = 15
Rnd 7. 15sc
Rnd 8. sc in next 4st, inc x3 = 18
Rnd 9. 18sc
Rnd 10. sc in next 5st, inc x3 = 21
Rnd 11. 21sc
Rnd 12. sc in next 6st, inc x3 = 24
Rnd 13. 24sc
Rnd 14. sc in next 3st, inc x6 = 30
Rnd 15. 30sc
Rnd 16. sc in next 4st, inc x6 = 36
Rnd 17. 36sc
Rnd 18. sc in next 5st, inc x6 = 42
Rnd 19. 42sc
Rnd 20. 42sc
Cut off yarn but leave a long tail to attach the tail on the body.

LEGS
Rnd 1. Start off with blue, 6sc in a magic ring, join with sl st, ch1
Rnd 2. inc x6, sl st, ch1
Rnd 3. sc in next st, dec x6, sl st, ch1
Rnd 4. sc in next 2st, dec x6, sl st, ch1
Rnd 5. Switch color to green, sc in next 3st, dec x6, sl st, ch1
Rnd 6. sc in next 4st, dec x6, sl st, ch1
Rnd 7. 36sc, sl st, ch1
Rnd 8. 36sc, sl st, ch1
Rnd 9. sc in next 4st, dec x6, sl st, ch1
Rnd 10. 30sc, sl st, ch1
Rnd 11. 30sc, sl st, ch1
Rnd 12. sc in next 3st, dec x6, sl st, ch1
Rnd 13. 24sc, sl st, ch1
Rnd 14. 24sc, sl st, ch1
Rnd 15. sc in next 2st, dec x6, sl st, ch1
Rnd 16. 18sc, sl st, ch1
Rnd 17. 18sc, sl st, ch1
Rnd 18. sc in next st, dec x6, sl st, ch1
Rnd 19. 12sc, sl st, ch1
Rnd 20. 12sc, sl st
Cut off yarn but leave a long tail to attach the legs on the body.

ARMS – green
Rnd 1. 6sc in a magic ring
Rnd 2. inc x6 = 12
Rnd 3-6. 12sc
Rnd 7. 2sc, 1bo, 9sc = 12
Rnd 8-17. 12sc, slst
Cut off yarn but leave a long tail to attach the arms on the body.

SPIKES 7 pieces blue
Rnd 1. 6sc in a magic ring
Rnd 2. 6sc
Rnd 3. sc in next st, inc x3 = 9
Rnd 4. sc in next 2sc, inc x3 = 12
Rnd 5. 12sc
Rnd 6. sc in next 3st, inc x3 = 15
Cut off yarn and attach the spikes on the head and body.

SPIKES 2 pieces blue
Rnd 1. 6sc in a magic ring
Rnd 2. 6sc
Rnd 3. sc in next st, inc x3 = 9
Rnd 4. sc in next 2sc, inc x3 = 12
Cut off yarn and attach the spikes on the head and body.

INFO
The opening of the body and the head are sewn together.
The 2 small spikes are mounted as the first on the head and the last on the tail.
The arms are padded in the hands alone.

Bobble stitch – thumb

1. Make a wrap around the needle, pick up yarn through the stitch, you now have 3 loops on the
   needle
2. Make a wrap around the needle and pull through 2 of the loops on the needle, becoming like a
   unfinished dc, and you should have 2 loops left on the needle.
3. Make a wrap on the needle, pick up yarn through the stitch
4. Make a wrap, pull through 2 loops, then you have 3 loops on the needle, and now you have 2
   unfinished dc.
5. Then you will make row 1-4 two times more. And now you will have done 4 unfinished dc and will
   have 5 loops in the needle.
6. Crochet sc in next stitches.
   
   If this is too complicated then Poof will be just as nice if you replace bo with sc

We finished our pattern. You can send the finished pattern to me on facebook, instagram and pinterest.

https://www.facebook.com/amigurumi.sdk.today/
https://www.instagram.com/amigurumifreepatternss/
https://www.pinterest.com/crochetblogkb/

More Amigurumi Dragon İdeas

Materials
2 Skeins of Capri Yarn found Note- One skein makes 2 chicks!
Colors I used
-For the body- Pink, Apricot, Bright Yellow, Mint, Turquoise, Lavender
-For the beak- Perfect Coral
Size E/3.5mm Crochet Hook
1 pair of 9mm Black Safety Eyes
Fiberfill
Stitch Marker
Yarn Needle
Straight Pins
Optional- 16 gauge black wire for the glasses

Abbreviations
R- Round
Sc- Single Crochet
Inc- Increase
Sts- Stitches
Inv dec- Invisible Decrease
Ch- Chain
Hdc- Half Double Crochet
Dc- Double Crochet

Finished Measurement:
2.5 inches wide and 3 inches tall

Body
Using color of your choice
R1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 sts)
R2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
R3: Sc 1, inc 6 times. (18 sts)
R4: Sc 2, inc 6 times. (24 sts)
R5: Sc 3, inc 6 times. (30 sts)
R6: Sc 4, inc 6 times. (36 sts)
R7: Sc 36.
R8: Sc 5, inc 6 times. (42 sts)
R9-18: Sc 42.
Add safety eyes between rounds 10&11, 6 stitches apart.
With a yarn needle, take the starting tail and weave it up through the center of the magic ring to create a little tuft of hair. Trim to desired length.
R19: Sc 5, inv dec 6 times. (36 sts)
R20: Sc 4, inv dec 6 times. (30 sts)
Begin adding fiberfill and continue as you close up the body.
R21: Sc 3, inv dec 6 times. (24 sts)
R22: Sc 2, inv dec 6 times. (18 sts)
R23: Sc 1, inv dec 6 times. (12 sts)
R24: Inv dec around 6 times. (6 sts)

Fasten off and leave a tail to close up the piece.

Beak
Using the color Perfect Coral,
Ch 3. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, hdc, then dc in last chain.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

With a yarn needle, sew the beak in between the safety eyes. Make sure to sew along the entire edge that is touching the chick body. Secure and hide tails.

Wings – Make 2
Using body color,
R1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 sts)
R2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
R3: Sc 1, inc 6 times. (18 sts)

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. With a yarn needle, weave in the starting tail. Then use the needle to sew the wings to the body. Place them near round 11 and use the straight pins to keep them in place while you attach. Secure and hide tail.

For the glasses:
Use wire cutters to cut 12 inches of the 16 gauge wire. Use the safety eyes as a guide to help know where the holes should be. Make sure the arms are straight and then carefully place them on the chick, making sure to not poke into the yarn. If giving this chick to a child, I do recommend omitting the glasses.

And there you have it! The cutest chick for spring! Make a whole flock of them in every color and give them as gifts this Easter! Or use them to decorate your house! The choice is yours! I hope you loved this pattern and I can’t wait to see all the chicks everyone makes! 

We finished our pattern. You can send the finished pattern to me on facebook, instagram and pinterest.

https://www.facebook.com/amigurumi.sdk.today/
https://www.instagram.com/amigurumifreepatternss/
https://www.pinterest.com/crochetblogkb/

More Amigurumi Chicks Ideas