Materials

• Crochet needle (2,5 mm)
• Medium brown yarn (for instance SMC Catania – 179)
• Light brown yarn (for instance SMC Catania – 206)
• White yarn (for instance Phildar Phil Coton 3 – Blanc 10)
• Red yarn (for instance Phildar Phil Coton 3 – Cerise 50)
• Yellow yarn (for instance Phildar Phil Coton 3 – Soleil 45)
• Fiber fill
• 2 black safety eyes (12 mm)
• Black safety nose (14 mm)
• Iron wire (1,1 mm)
• Skewers

Abbreviations
RND = Round
sc = single crochet
sl.st = slipstitch
ch = chain
tch = turning chain
dec = decrease 

Head/body
(Use medium brown yarn)
RND 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
RND 2: 2 sc in each sc (12)Ü
RND 3: 2 sc in each 2nd sc (18)
RND 4: 2 sc in each 3rd sc (24)
RND 5: 2 sc in each 4th sc (30)
RND 6: 2 sc in each 5th sc (36)
RND 7: 2 sc in each 6th sc (42)
RND 8: 2 sc in each 7th sc (48)
RND 9: 2 sc in each 8th sc (54)
RND 10: 2 sc in each 9th sc (60)
RND 11: 2 sc in each 10th sc (66)
RND 12-18: 66 sc (66)
RND 19: 2 sc in each 11th sc (72)
RND 20-24: 72 sc (72)
RND 25: dec over each 11th and 12th sc (66)
Attach the safety eyes to the head, between round 17 and 18, with 10 stitches
between the eyes.
RND 26: dec over each 10th and 11th sc (60)
RND 27: dec over each 9th and 10th sc (54)
RND 28: dec over each 8th and 9th sc (48)
RND 29: dec over each 7th and 8th sc (42)
RND 30: dec over each 6th and 7th sc (36)
RND 31: dec over each 5th and 6th sc (30)
RND 32: dec over each 4th and 5th sc (24)
Start filling and keep filling until the last round.
RND 33: 2 sc in each 4th sc (30)
RND 34: 30 sc (30)
RND 35: 2 sc in each 5th sc (36)
RND 36: 36 sc (36)
RND 37: 2 sc in each 6th sc (42)
RND 38-44: 42 sc (42)
RND 45: dec over each 6th and 7th sc (36)
RND 46: dec over each 5th and 6th sc (30)
RND 47: dec over each 4th and 5th sc (24) 
RND 48: dec over each 3rd and 4th sc (18)
RND 49: dec over each 2nd and 3rd sc (12)
RND 50: dec over each 2 sc (6)
Tie-off with a sl.st and close the head/body.

Arms (2x)
(Use medium brown yarn)
RND 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
RND 2: 2 sc in each sc (12)
RND 3-12: 12 sc (12)
Fill the arms. Tie-off with a sl.st and leave
enough yarn to sew the arms to the body.

Feet (2x)
(Start with light brown yarn)
RND 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
RND 2: 2 sc in each sc (12)
RND 3: 2 sc in the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 7th, 8th, 9th sc
(18)
(Switch to medium brown yarn)
RND 4: 2 sc in the 2nd, 4th, 6th, 11th,
13th, 15th sc (24)
RND 5: 24 sc (24)
RND 6: dec over the 2nd and 3rd, 5th
and 6th, 8th and 9th sc (21)
RND 7: dec over each 6th and 7th sc (18)
RND 8: dec over each 5th and 6th sc (15)
RND 9-11: 15 sc (15)
Fill the feet. Tie-off with a sl.st and leave
enough yarn to sew the feet to the body. 

Snout
(Use light brown yarn)
RND 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
RND 2: 2 sc in each sc (12)
RND 3: 2 sc in each 2nd sc (18)
RND 4: 2 sc in each 3rd sc (24)
RND 5: 24 sc (24)
RND 6: 2 sc in each 4th sc (30)
Tie-off with a sl.st and leave enough yarn to sew the snout to the head.
Attach the safety nose to the snout, between round 3 and 4.

Ears outside (2x)
(Use medium brown yarn)
RND 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
RND 2: 2 sc in each sc (12)
RND 3: 2 sc in each 2nd sc (18)
RND 4: 2 sc in each 3rd sc (24)
RND 5: 2 sc in each 4th sc (30)
RND 6-10: 30 sc (30)
Tie-off with a sl.st and leave enough yarn to sew the ears to the head.

Ears inside (2x)
(Use light brown yarn)
RND 1: 6 sc in magic ring + 1 tch (6)
RND 2: turn around and crochet 6 sc + 1 tch (6)
RND 3: turn around and crochet 2 sc in each sc +
1 tch (12)
RND 4: turn around and crochet 12 sc (12)
Tie-off with a sl.st and leave enough yarn to sew this part to the ears outside. 

Quiver
(Start with white yarn)
RND 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
RND 2: 2 sc in each sc (12)
RND 3: 2 sc in each 2nd sc (18)
RND 4: 2 sc in each 3rd sc (24)
RND 5: 24 sc in the back loops only (24)
RND 6-16: 24 sc (24)
(Switch to red yarn)
RND 17-18: 24 sc (24)
RND 19: 2 sc in each 4th sc in the front loops only (30)
RND 20: 30 sc (30)
Tie-off with a sl.st.
(Use white yarn)
Fold the top of the quiver.

Quiver strap
Row 1: 40 ch + 1 tch (40)
Row 2: turn around and crochet 40 sc (40)
Tie-off and leave enough yarn to sew the strap to the quiver.

Bow
(Use yellow yarn)
RND 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
RND 2-35: 6 sc (6)
Put a piece of iron wire into the bow and bend it
in the shape you want.
Tie-off with a sl.st and close the bow. 

Arrows: heart part 1 (3x)
(Use red yarn)
RND 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
RND 2: 2 sc in each 2nd sc (9)
RND 3: 9 sc (9)
Tie-off with a sl.st.

Arrows: heart part 2 (3x)
(Use red yarn)
RND 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
RND 2: 2 sc in each 2nd sc (9)
RND 3: 9 sc (9)
RND 4: crochet around the 2 parts (18)
RND 5: dec over each 2nd and 3rd sc (12)
RND 6: 12 sc (12)
Fill the heart.
RND 7: dec over each 2 sc (6)
Tie-off with a sl.st and close the heart.

Arrows: back part 1 (3x)
(Use red yarn)
RND 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)
RND 2: 4 sc (4)
RND 3: 2 sc in each 2nd sc (6)
Tie-off with a sl.st. 
Arrows: back part 2 (3x)
(Use red yarn)
RND 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)
RND 2: 4 sc (4)
RND 3: 2 sc in each 2nd sc (6)
RND 4: crochet around the 2 parts (12)
Fill the part.
RND 5: dec over each 2 sc (6)
Tie-off with a sl.st.

Putting all the parts together
Sew the arms to the body, about 2 rounds below the neck.
Sew the feet to the body, about 8 rounds below the neck.
Fill the snout and sew it to the head, somewhere at round 21.
Sew the ears inside to the ears outside.
Then sew the ears to the head, somewhere at round 8.
Put the strap along the front around the bear. Sew the ends at the back of the bear to the quiver, 1 end at round 15 and the other end at round 7. 
Take a skewer and cut it so it will be about 5 cm tall.
Wrap light brown yarn around it and use (fabric) glue to keep it on its place.
Paste 1 end of the skewer into the heart and the other end into the back of the arrow.
Sew or paste the bow to 1 arm of the bear.
Sew or paste the heart of the arrow to the bow and the back of the arrow to the other arm.
Put the other 2 arrows in the quiver.
Please send a picture of your finished plush to
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Bear Ideas:

Materials
Worsted medium weight (4) yarn in desired colors (I used brown, off-white, green, red, and white. Refer
to ‘Color Guide’ at start of pattern.)
Scraps of dark brown yarn for sewing nose and mouth.
3.25mm crochet hook
6.00mm crochet hook
Pair of 6mm plastic safety eyes
Fiberfill stuffing
Yarn needle
Scissors

Abbreviations
MR: magic ring
Sc: single crochet
Inc: increase
Dec: decrease
Fhdc: foundation half double crochet

COLOR GUIDE
C1: Brown (bear head, ears, arms, legs)
C2: Off-white (bear muzzle)
C3: Green (ornament)
C4: Red (ornament, scarf)
C5: White (ornament)

HEAD
Begin with C1 yarn (brown) and the 3.25mm hook.
R1: 6 sc in MR. (6 sts)
R2: Inc around. (12 sts)
R3: (Sc, inc) x 6. (18 sts)
R4: (Sc 2, inc) x 6. (24 sts)
R5: (Sc 3, inc) x 6. (30 sts)
R6: (Sc 4, inc) x 6. (36 sts)
R7-R12: Sc around. (36 sts)
R13: (Sc 4, dec) x 6. (30 sts)
R14: (Sc 3, dec) x 6. (24 sts)
R15: (Sc 2, dec) x 6. (18 sts)
Fasten off and weave in the ends.

EARS (x2)
Begin with C1 yarn (brown) and the 3.25mm hook.
R1: 6 sc in MR. (6 sts)
R2: (Sc, inc) x 3. (9 sts)
R3: (Sc 2, inc) x 3. (12 sts)
Fasten off with a long tail for sewing to the head later.

MUZZLE
Begin with C2 yarn (off-white) and the 3.25mm hook.
R1: 6 sc in MR. (6 sts)
R2: (Sc, inc) x 3. (9 sts)
Fasten off and weave in the ends.

ARMS (x2)
Note: Lightly stuff the arms as you crochet.
Begin with C1 yarn (brown) and the 3.25mm hook.
R1: 6 sc in MR. (6 sts)
R2: (Sc, inc) x 3. (9 sts)
R3-R4: Sc around. (9 sts)
R5: Sc 7, dec. (8 sts)
R6: Sc around. (8 sts)
R7: Sc 6, dec. (7 sts)
R8: Sc around. (7 sts)
R9: Sc 5, dec. (6 sts)
R10: Sc around. (6 sts)
Fasten off with a long tail for sewing to the body later.

LEGS (x2)
Note: Lightly stuff the legs as you crochet.
Begin with C1 yarn (brown) and the 3.25mm hook.
R1: 6 sc in MR. (6 sts)
R2: (Sc, inc) x 3. (9 sts)
R3: (Sc 2, inc) x 3. (12 sts)
R4-R5: Sc around. (12 sts)
R6: (Sc 4, dec) x 2. (10 sts)
R7-R8: Sc around. (10 sts)
R9: (Sc 3, dec) x 2. (8 sts)
Fasten off with a long tail for sewing to the body later

ORNAMENT BODY
Begin with C3 yarn (green) and the 3.25mm hook.
R1: 6 sc in MR. (6 sts)
R2: Inc around. (12 sts)
R3: (Sc, inc) x 6. (18 sts)
R4: (Sc 2, inc) x 6. (24 sts)
R5: (Sc 3, inc) x 6. (30 sts)
R6: (Sc 4, inc) x 6. (36 sts)
R7: (Sc 5, inc) x 6. (42 sts)
R8-R9: Sc around. (42 sts)
Switch to C5 yarn (white).
R10: Sc around. (42 sts)
Switch to C4 yarn (red).
R11-R14: Sc around. (42 sts)
Switch to C5 yarn (white).
R15: Sc around. (42 sts)
Switch to C3 yarn (green).
R16-R17: Sc around. (42 sts)
R18: (Sc 5, dec) x 6. (36 sts)
R19: (Sc 4, dec) x 6. (30 sts)
R20: (Sc 3, dec) x 6. (24 sts)
R21: (Sc 2, dec) x 6. (18 sts)
Fasten off with a long tail for sewing to the body later. Stuff well but be careful not to stretch the stitches.

SCARF
Begin with C4 yarn (red) and the 6mm hook.
Ch 3. Fhdc until the scarf is as long as you’d like it to be. (I crocheted 34 fhdc and my bear’s scarf measured 9
inches in length to wrap twice around the neck.)
Fasten off and weave in the ends.

FINISHING INSTRUCTIONS
Part 1: Finishing the Head
1-) Insert plastic safety eyes into the bear’s head, leaving a gap in the middle for the muzzle. (I inserted
6mm eyes between R9-R10, 7 sts apart.)
2-) Using some darker brown scraps of yarn, sew a horizontal line for a nose and a vertical line for the
mouth onto the bear’s muzzle.
3-) Position the muzzle between the eyes and sew it to the head.
4-) Sew the two ears onto the bear’s head.

Part 2: Finishing the Body
1-) Using white yarn, embroider a design such as a snowflake across the center of the ornament.
2-) Sew the legs to the bottom of the ornament. (Note that the opening is on top.)
3-) Sew the arms to both sides of the bear, near where the top opening is.

Part 3: Putting It All Together
1-) Finally, sew the head and body together using the long yarn tail from the body. If needed, add
additional stuffing before closing up the opening.
2-) Wrap the scarf around your bear’s neck, and sew it securely if desired.
3-) Optional: Sew or fasten a loop to the top of the bear’s head. This way, he can be hung on a tree as an actual ornament.
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Bear İdeas :

Materials
Pekhorka Detskaya obemnaya yarn (100% microfiber, 400 m/100 g),
2.0 mm crochet hook,
Black yarn (YarnArt Jeans) for embroidering nose and eyelashes
White yarn (YarnArt Jeans) for embroidering eye whites
Brown yarn (Pekhorka) for embroidering eyebrows
Pink yarn (Alize Softy) for embroidering cheeks
10 mm safety eyes
One button
Sewing needle and scissors
Fiberfill

Abbreviations
R – row
ch – chain
st – stitch
sc – single crochet
inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch)
dec – decrease (2 sc together)
BLO – back loop only
[…] – number of stitches you should have at the end of the row
(…) – repeat whatever is between the brackets the given number of times

Head
R 1: 8 sc in magic ring [8]
R 2: (inc) repeat 8 times [16]
R 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 8 times [24]
R 4: (3 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [30]
R 5: (4sc, inc) repeat 6 times [36]
R 6: (5 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [42]
R 7: (6 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [48]
R 8: (7 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [54]
R 9: 54 sc
R 10: (8 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [60]
R 11: 60 sc
R 12: (9 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [66]
R 13-14: 66 sc (2 ряда)
R 15: (10 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [72]
R 16-17: 72 sc (2 rows)
R 18: (11 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [78]
R 19-22: 78 sc (4 rows)
Insert safety eyes between R 19 and R 20 of the head at the distance of 10 st from each other.
R 23: (11 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [72]
R 24: (10 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [66]
R 25: (9 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [60]
R 26: (8 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [54]
R 27: (7 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [48]
R 28: (6 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [42]
R 29: (5 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
R 30: (4 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
R 31: (3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3-12: 12 sc (10 rows)
Stuff 1/2 full.
R 13: (2 sc, dec) repeat 3 times [9]
Fold the top opening flat and sc through both sides.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Legs (make 2)
R 1: 8 sc in magic ring [8]
R 2: (inc) repeat 8 times [16]
R 3: BLO 16 sc
R 4-6: 16 sc (3 rows)
R 7: (3 sc, inc) repeat 4 times [20]
Fasten off.
Crochet the second leg, do not fasten off.
Make 1 ch on the second leg and join with the first leg.

Body
R 8: 20 sc on the first leg, 1 sc in 1 ch, 20 sc on the second leg, 1 sc in 1 ch (opposite side) [42]
R 9: (6 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [48]
R 10-13: 48 sc (4 rows)
R 14: (6 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [42]
R 15-20: 42 sc (6 rows)
R 21: (5 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
R 22: (4 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
R 23: (3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
Fasten off.

Ears (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [18]
R 4-6: 18 sc (3 rows)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Tail
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3: 12 sc
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Muzzle
R 1: 8 sc in magic ring [8]
R 2: (inc) repeat 8 times [16]
R 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 8 times [24]
R 4-5: 24 sc (2 rows)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Assembly
Sew ear to the head. Start from the R 15 and go to the center
Sew arms to the body between R 20 and R 21.
Sew tail to the body
Sew muzzle to the head
Embroider nose with black yarn
Embroider eyebrows with brown yarn
Embroider eye whites with white yarn
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Bear İdeas .

Abbreviations
beg – begin/beginning
bet — between
BL – back loop
ch – chain stitch
ch- – refers to a ch space previously
made: e.g., ch-1 space
ch-sp – refers to chain or space
cm – centimeter(s)
cont — continue
Dc – double crochet (UK treble cr)
Dc2tog – double crochet 2 stitches
together (decrease)
Dec – decreases(s)
ea – each
FL – front loop(s)
FO – fasten off
hdc – half double crochet
hdc2tog – half double crochet 2
stitches together
inc – increase
lp(s) – loops
mm – millimeter(s)
pl – place
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd(s) – round(s)
RS – right side
sc – single crochet (same as UK dc)
sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches
together
sk – skip
Sl st – slip stitch (same as UK sc)
Sp(s) – space(s)
St – stitch
tog — together
WS — wrong side
Yd(s) – yard(s)
YO – yarn over
Yoh – yarn over hook

Check for Comparison to Perle Cotton: Wrap the thread you want to use around
a ruler, with each thread wrap touching the last wrap. The number of wraps that fit
inside ¼ inch (.6 cm) is the equivalent size to perle cotton. For instance, if your
thread wraps around 12 times, then it is equivalent to size 12 perle cotton.
Check for Comparison to Crochet Cotton: Wrap the thread you want to use
around a ruler, with each thread wrap touching the last wrap. The number of wraps
that fit inside ½ inch (1.3 cm) is the equivalent size to crochet cotton. For instance, if
your thread wraps around 30 times, then it is equivalent to size 30 crochet cotton.

Materials:
• Size 30 cotton thread, light brown, or color of choice (Color A) – 1 ball Size 30
thread, off-white, or color of choice (Color B) – about 25 yds
Note: Bear may be made all in one color if desired.
• Size 10 (1.3mm) crochet hook
• Fiberfill
• Two 2-mm black onyx beads for eyes
• Two ¼” by 1/16″ joint disks
• One 1/16″ by ½” cotter pin
• Black embroidery thread (or color desired for features)
• Upholstery or other strong thread similar in color to bear for jointing
• Nylon or other strong black thread for sewing on eyes
• Sewing Needles (Suggestions: nr 7 darner or milliner’s needle for jointing and eyes, nr
26 tapestry needle for closing, nr 9 embroidery needle for features, and nr 10 beading
needle for eyes.)
• Small hemostat, dowel, long tweezers, or other long, narrow tool for stuffing
• Small needle-nose pliers for curling cotter pins
• Watercolor pencil or makeup for shading (brown and light pink) – optional
You may use other types and sizes of thread to make Boo Bear, with a size hook that’s
appropriate for the thread used. (The size of your bear may vary from mine because of a
difference in tension). Size 30 thread, size 12 perle cotton, or punch thread and a size 10
hook will make a bear just under 3 inches; use a size 12 hook for an even smaller bear.
You can also make him larger by using a sport-weight mohair yarn and a size 7 hook, for
instance, which makes a 4-3/4 inch bear. Be sure to change the size of the eyes and joint
pins and disks accordingly.

Head (Vertical Muzzle):
1. With color B ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 ch; 3 sc in last ch; continuing
around to opposite side of chain, sk 1st free lp (opposite ch where you just made the 3
sc), sc in next 3 free lps, 2 sc in last free lp, do not join – use a piece of contrasting thread
or other marker to mark the beginning of rounds.
• The beginning of the rounds is the bottom of the head. (12 sc)
2. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc. (14 sc)
3. Sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc. (15 sc)
4. Sc in ea sc around. (15 sc)
5. Sc in ea sc around; FO color B with sl st in next sc. Note: If making single color
bear, do not FO, but sl st in last sc and continue in color A. (15 sc)
6. Join color A with sc in sc after sl st; sc in next 2 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 3 sc
in next sc, sc in next 3 sc; do not join, place marker. (19 sc) Note: If making single
color bear begin this round with “sc in sc after sl st;”.
7. Sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 12 sc, sc in next 4 sc. (31 sc)
8. Sc in next 5 sc, 3 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next
7 sc, 3 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 6 sc. (41 sc)
9. Sc in next 11 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 14 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 12 sc. (39 sc)
• At this point it’s helpful to place a marker at the bottom center of the muzzle to assist
with placement of the cotter pin, if you are jointing the head with a cotter pin and disk
joint.
10. Sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 12 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc)
twice. (35 sc)
11– 12. Sc in ea sc around. (35 sc)
13. Sc in next 11 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 11 sc. (33 sc)
14 – 16. Sc in ea sc around. (33 sc)
17. Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 16 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog, sc in
next sc. (29 sc)
18. (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times; last st will go into next row; replace rnd marker after
the last sc. (23 sc)
19. Sc in ea sc around. (23)
• At this point, place a disk onto a cotter pin; insert the pin into the head and out the
center bottom of the head between rows 12 and 13, directly in line with the middle of the
snout, easing the pin through carefully so as not to tear your fabric. Now begin stuffing
the head, then check to make sure that the cotter pin is positioned correctly. You may find
that you need to remove the stuffing and reposition it. Repeat the process until you’re
satisfied that the cotter pin is where it should be.
Tip: Stuffing requires a lot of patience. If the pieces are not stuffed adequately, your
bear will not have the shape and look that it should, and it could look cheap and
shoddy. I use a small hemostat for stuffing mini-bears. With it I can “feel” empty spots
that need additional stuffing, but use whatever method works for you. By the same
token, you don’t want to overstuff the piece, causing the stitches to gape and show the
stuffing!
20. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 7 times, sc2tog. (15 sc)
• Continue stuffing the head, shaping as you go. Don’t forget to fill out the cheek area on
each side of the muzzle. Check shaping from all angles.
21. Sc in ea sc around. (15 sc)
22. Keeping stitches as tight as possible, sc2tog 7 times; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving
long end to use for closing.
• Add a bit more stuffing if needed. Thread long end on the tapestry needle and sew a
row of gathering stitches, going in and out of the front loops around rnd 22; pull firmly to
gather and close the end. Fasten off and secure. (Be extra careful if using punch thread to
close; it breaks easily when pulled too hard.)
Tip: Hide your loose thread ends by inserting thread onto a needle, then inserting the
needle into the body piece and out at another location. Always go in and out of the
fabric between stitches, and be careful not to catch any of the fabric when you do this.
Pull the thread taut, and use sharp scissors to clip the thread close to the surface.
Eyes:
Eye Sockets (Optional): Thread the darning or milliner’s needle (should be about 2-1/2
inches long) using upholstery or other strong thread to match the body and knot the
end. Insert the needle up into the bottom part of the head and run it through the head a
couple of time to anchor the thread. (Make sure that you go out of and back in the
same place, between stitches, when you do this.) Next bring the needle out at the left
eye location. Take a stitch the width of one sc, pushing the needle through the head to
the right eye location. Pull firmly to make a slight indentation for the left eye. Take a
stitch the width of one sc, inserting the needle into head at right eye location, and back
out at left eye location. Pull firmly to make an indentation for the right eye. Repeat
once if necessary. Keeping thread taut, insert needle into left eye socket, and bring it out
the bottom of head. Run the thread through the head once more, and fasten off
securely, making sure that eye sockets remain indented.
• At this point you may use watercolor pencils, fabric markers, or eye shadow on a cotton
swab to shade the eye area, if desired. If using punch thread or mohair, you may brush
the finished pieces carefully with a mohair finger brush for a slightly fuzzy look.
Attach eyes: Use pins (the kind with round glass heads are good
for this) to locate the eye positions. Sew the eyes on with black
nylon or other strong thread: Begin by threading a sturdy needle,
such as a milliner’s needle, with nylon or other strong thread. If
using wire-looped eyes, crimp the wire loop with pliers, if it’s not
pre-crimped, until you can just get your needle through the loop;
insert the needle through the loop (or bead), and then remove the
thread from the needle. If you can’t get your needle through the
wire or bead, insert the thread through first, then thread the needle.
Thread both ends back onto the needle, and then insert the needle
into the first eye location. *Bring the needle out the back or
bottom of the head (depending on the angle you want), pulling the thread until the wire
loop touches the face. Insert the crimped loop into the same place where the needle
went in (use a larger needle to make a tunnel for the loop if necessary), pushing it flush
against the face. Pull gently but firmly on the thread to slightly imbed the eye into the
face. Keeping the thread taut so as not to allow the eye to loosen, insert the needle back
into the exact place,** then push through the head and out at the second eye location.
Insert the threaded needle through the eye wire or bead (once again, if your needle
won’t go through the opening, remove the thread from the needle, insert it through the
eye wire or bead, then rethread the needle). Insert the needle into the 2nd eye location,
then repeat * to ** to attach the 2nd eye, bringing the needle out finally at the bottom of
the head. Tie off the ends with a surgeon’s knot, then thread the ends onto the needle
and insert back into the head in the same place where the knot is; pull though the head.
Clip ends close to the surface so that they disappear inside the head.
Tip: Don’t be afraid to experiment with eye, brow, nose, and mouth shape and
placement, as well as ear placement. Sometimes the most far-out facial renderings make
the cutest bears. Make each bear an individual!
Nose, Mouth, Eyebrows:
Embroider the nose using satin stitch with 2 strands of black embroidery thread. With
same thread, embroider 1 straight stitch beginning at the bottom center of nose, about 2
or 3 sc in length, depending on the look you want. Finally, make an inverted v-stitch for
the mouth, with center being at the bottom of the center straight stitch. Using 2 strands
of black floss, embroider a straight st for each brow above each eye.

Ears (Make 2):
Note: For bi-color ears, work rows 1 – 3 with color B, then change to
color A to work rows 4 – 6.
1. With color A ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd lp from hook; ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
2. 5 inc; ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
3. (Inc, 2 sc) 3 times; inc in last sc; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
4. Sc across; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
5. (Dec; 2 sc) 3 times; dec; ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
6. 5 dec; ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
7. 5 sc; fasten off, leaving long end for sewing ear to head. (This is the back of the ear.)
Attach ears: With front facing you, flatten ear horizontally; then sew bottom opening
of ear together from side to side. Fold ear vertically towards front, bringing ear into a
cup shape with front forming inside of cup. Tack bottom left front corner to bottom
right front corner. Sew ear to head, maintaining cup shape, with back center point of ear
placed 2 or 3 rows behind center front. Shade the inside of the ear, if you wish.
Body:
1. With color A ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join, place rnd marker. (6 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 6 times. (24 sc)
5. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times. (30 sc)
6. Sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 13 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in
next 7 sc. (34 sc)
7. Sc in ea around. (34 sc)
• Attach Head: Insert the head cotter pin into the top of the body at the
center of rnd 1. Place the second disk onto the pin and push it onto the pin
until it is touching the fabric. Use your pliers to curl the legs of the pin under
until they rest snugly on the disk.
8 – 11. Sc in ea sc around. (34 sc)
12. Sc in next 11 sc, (2 sc in next sc) 5 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc. (40 sc)
13. Sc in next sc around. (40 sc)
14. Sc in next 12 sc, place marker (use a 2-inch piece of contrasting thread), (2 sc in next
sc, sc in next 2 sc) 5 times, 2 sc in next 2 sc, place another marker, sc in next 12 sc. (46
sc)
• Markers will be used to assist with placement of head, arms, and legs, so be careful not
to pull them out.
15. Sc in next sc around. (46 sc)
16. Sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 26 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 5 sc. (42 sc)
17. Sc in ea sc around. (42 sc)
18. Sc in next 6 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc. (35 sc)
19. Sc in ea around. (35 sc)
20. Sc in next 5 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 8 times, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc. (26 sc)
21. Sc in ea sc around. (26 sc)
• At this point, begin stuffing the body. Insert a little bag of steel shot for weight, if you
wish.
22. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 8 times, sc2tog. (17 sc)
23. Sc in ea sc around. (17 sc)
• Continue stuffing.
24. Sc2tog 8 times, sl st in next sc; FO, leaving a long end for closing. (8 sc, sl st)
• Add more stuffing, if needed. Close same as for head.
Tip: Did you know that your state of mind or the way you feel physically can affect
your crochet tension? Since that can significantly affect the size and tightness of your
stitches, it’s advisable, when making two of anything such as arms or legs, to make both
of the pair at the same sitting. Otherwise, you may end up with one arm or leg shorter
than the other.
Left Arm:
1. With Color A ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch; moving around to work on
opposite side of ch, sc in next 3 free lps; do not join, place rnd marker. (6 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) twice. (14 sc)
4 – 7. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
8. Sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sl st loosely in next 4 sc (loosely so you
will be able to work into the sl st on the next round. If the sl st is too tight, it will be very
difficult to work into). (8 sc, 4 sl st)
9. Sc in next 8 sc, sl st loosely in next 4 sl st. (8 sc, 4 sl st)
10. Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sl st. (14 sc)
11 – 15. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
16 – 17. Sc in next sc, sl st loosely in next 4 sc, sc in next 9 sc. (10 sc, 4 sl st)
• Begin stuffing arm.
18. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
19. Sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc. (15 sc)
20 – 23. Sc in ea sc around. (15 sc)
24. Sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc. (13 sc)
25. Sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc; FO with sl st in next sc.
(11 sc )
• Finish stuffing. Thread end on needle, then sew the end of the arm closed using a ladder
stitch or overhand stitch through the outer loops. The seam should run front to back (the
sl st at the wrist are on the inside of the arm.). FO securely and hide end inside arm.
Right Arm:
1 – 15. Work same as Right Arm.
16 – 17. Sc in next 5 sc, sl st loosely in next 4 sc, sc in next 5 sc. (10 sc, 4 sl st)
• Begin stuffing arm.
18. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
19. Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc. (15 sc)
20 – 25. Work same as Left Arm.
Attach arms:
Use the darning needle and upholstery or other strong thread, doubled; not knotted.
Insert needle into first shoulder area of bear and run it through the body a couple of
times to anchor the thread (Leave a 2-1/2 inch tail protruding from the first shoulder.);
bring the needle out at the second shoulder. When arms are at the bear’s sides, the
inner elbow should be just behind the marking threads. [Insert needle into inner side of
arm and through to outer arm. Insert needle back into outer arm in the same place
where it came out, dip the needle inside the arm to grab some stuffing, and bring it out
the inner the arm in the exact spot where it went in. Then take the needle back through
the body, always using the same entry and exit spots, and out the opposite shoulder.]
Repeat within [ ] for the second arm. Repeat the entire process once more if you wish.
Pull gently but firmly to pull the arms firmly against the body. Cut thread, leaving a tail;
tie off the starting and ending tails with surgeon’s knots, then thread the tails onto the
needle and pull into body and out the other side. Pull on thread firmly and clip close to
surface so that it disappears inside body. Finish by using one strand of black floss to
embroider 3 or 4 evenly spaced vertical straight stitches on the end of each paw, for
claws.
Legs (Make 2):
1. With color B (or main color if bear is one color) ch 2, make 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook;
ch 1, turn. ( 3 sc)
2. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
3 – 6. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
7. 2 sc in next c, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (7 sc)
8. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (9 sc)
9. 2 hdc in next sc, hdc in next sc, sl st in same pl as last hdc, ch 1, (2 hdc in next sc, hdc
in next sc, sl st in same sc, ch 1) twice, hdc in next sc, 2 hdc in last sc, sl st in same sc; FO.
(12 hdc, 4 sl st, 3 ch-1).
10. With right side facing and working in row ends along side of foot, join color A with
sc in beg ch at center of heel; sc in end of rows 1 – 8, 2 sc in end of row 9, sl st in same pl
as last sc, now, skipping the ch-1 spaces, (sc in next 3 hdc, sl st in next sl st) 4 times; now
working down the side of the foot, make 2 sc in end of row 9, sc in end of rows 8 – 1;
finally, sc in the same pl with the 1st sc; do not join; place marker. (34 sc, 4 sl st)
11. Working in BL (optional), sc in next 11 sc, sl st in next sl st, (sc in next 3 sc, sl st in next
sl st) 4 times, sc in next 11 sc. (34 sc, 4 sl st)
12. Working in both loops, repeat rnd 11. (34 sc, 4 sl st)
• Note: Make all dec as tightly as possible to avoid wide gaps in tops of feet. It is
inevitable that you will have small holes in the work when this number of decreases are
worked over each other, but the idea is to keep them as tiny as possible.
13. Sc in next 4 st, sl st in next 4 st, sc in next 5 st, sc2tog 6 times, sc in next 5 st, sl st in
next 4 st, sc in next 5 st. (25 sc, 8 sl st)
14. Sc in next 4 st, sc2tog, sl st in next 3 st, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 5 times, sl st in next 3
st, sc2tog, sc in next 4 st. (20 sc, 6 sl st)
15. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker here to begin rnd here (this is to reposition the
starting point, and does not change the stitch count), sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog 6 times, sc in
next 7 sc. (20 sc)
16. Sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog 4 times, sc in next 6 sc. (16 sc)
17 – 18. Sc in ea sc around. (16 sc)

• Stuff foot. Begin by pushing tiny pieces of fiberfill into each toe with a small hemostat or
other small tool. Shape foot as you stuff, keep narrower instep and toe definition as much
as possible.
19 – 22. Sc in ea sc around. (16 sc)
• Continue stuffing every few rounds.
23. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here; sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2
sc, sc in next 7 sc. (18 sc)
24– 27. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)
28. Sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here; sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc. (17
sc)
29. Sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc. (16 sc)
30. Sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sc. (15 sc)
31. (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 3 times; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for closing.
(12 sc)
• Close using the same method used for arms.

Sculpt toes (Optional):
Thread a needle with a color as similar as possible to the bear; knot end. Insert the
needle (always work between the crochet stitches) and pull the knot inside the leg. Run
the needle through the leg a couple of times to secure the thread, being careful not to
catch any fabric. Now bring the needle out on top of foot bet rnds 12 and 13, directly
above the place where 1st toe definition begins. *Take a stitch the width of one sc, going
straight down and out the bottom of the foot bet rows 7 and 8. Pull thread firmly to
create indentation. Keeping thread taut throughout to maintain indentations, make a
straight stitch horizontally to the side of the foot, even with space bet rows 7 and 8, just
behind rnd 11, and out again on top of foot above bet 2nd and 3rd toes. Take a stitch the
width on one sc, bringing needle out on bottom of foot bet rows 7 and 8. *Take a
horizontal straight stitch to your left, and insert needle in the bottom of foot in same
place as beginning of previous horizontal straight stitch.* Bring needle out at top front
of foot bet 3rd and 4th toes, take a stitch the width on one sc, bringing needle out directly
below. Repeat * to * above, coming out once again bet the 3rd and 4th toes. Go back in
at the same place, and come out on bottom directly below. Make the final horizontal
straight st by taking the thread to your right, and inserting the needle right behind rnd 11,
even with the sp bet rows 7 and 8, as you did on the opposite side of the foot. Bring
the needle back out bet 1st and 2nd toes, just above rnd 11. Make a vertical straight stitch,
bringing the needle down and inserting it where the 1st and 2nd horizontal stitches meet
on bottom of foot. Continue to keep the thread taut to maintain indentations. Come
back out bet the 2nd and 3rd toes, and repeat the process; then repeat once again bet the
3rd and 4th toes. Keeping thread taut, run the needle through the foot several times to
secure thread, making sure you always go in and out between stitches so as not to catch
any fabric and make unwanted indentations!
Leg Sockets: (Optional)
Thread the darning or milliners needle with thread similar in color to body. Leaving a 2-
inch tail at the beginning, insert needle into side of body about 4 rows up from bottom
of body directly down from arm joint; bring needle out in same place on opposite side.
Insert needle back into body three rows up; bring out on opposite side of body 3 rows
above tail. Insert needle back into body in same place where tail protrudes, and bring
out on opposite side in same place as previous exit point. Go back through to the
opposite side once more, and pull to indent the sockets. Attach legs: Continuing, insert
needle back into body one sc width down from exit point, push through the body, and
bring out at same place on opposite side. Now use the same method to attach the legs
as used for arms.
Overalls:
Materials:
• Thread in color of choice – use the same size thread and hook as used for the bear
• Three 4mm doll buttons (for 3-inch bear; adjust size for larger bear)
• Sewing thread to match overalls and buttons
• Sewing needle, tapestry needle
1. Ch 41, hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in ea ch across; ch 2, turn. (Ch-2 counts as hdc.)
(40 hdc)
2 – 4. Hdc in ea hdc across; ch 2, turn. At end of row 4, join with sl st in top of beg ch2.
(40 sc)
First leg:
5. Hdc in next 19 hdc, ch 6, join with sl st in top of beg ch-2; FO. (20 hdc, 6 ch)
6. With RS facing, join with sl st in BL of 4th ch of ch-6, ch 2, hdc in next 2 ch, hdc in
next 20 hdc, hdc in next 3 ch; join in top of beg ch-2, ch 1, do not turn. (26 hdc)
7. Working in BL for this row, sc in same pl as joining and in next 9 hdc, 2 sc in next
hdc, sc in next 12 hdc, 2 sc in next hdc, sc in next 3 hdc, join with sl st in 1st sc; FO. (28
sc)
Second leg:
5. With WS facing you, join with sl st in 4th free lp of ch-6 at crotch, ch 2, hdc in next 2
free lps, hdc in next hdc on row 4, hdc in next 19 hdc, hdc in next 3 ch; join with sl st in
top of beg ch-2, ch 2, turn. (26 hdc)
6. Hdc in next hdc and in next 24 hdc; join with sl st in top of beg ch-2, ch 1, turn. (26
hdc)
7. Working in BL for this row, sc in same pl as joining and in next 9 hdc, 2 sc in next
hdc, sc in next 12 hdc, 2 sc in next hdc, sc in next 3 hdc, join with sl st in 1st sc; FO. (28
sc)
Optional Cuff Row for Both Legs: Ch 2, turn; working in BL; hdc in same pl, (Hdc in
next 4 sc, 2 hdc in next sc) 5 times, hdc in next 3 sc; join with sl st in top of beg ch-2;
FO. (35 hdc)
• Depending on the thread or yarn used, you may need to tack the cuff to the shorts.
• There will be small gaps at the front and rear crotch where the stitches don’t quite meet.
Using the same thread as pants, tack the stitches together, closing the gaps.
• Weave loose thread ends.
Waist Band and Placket:
1. With RS facing, join pants color with sc in 1st free lp of foundation ch at waist, sc in
next 39 free lps, ch 1, sc in side of sc just made, ch 3 (buttonhole), sc in end of next row,make 6 more sc,
evenly spaced, down the right back opening, sl st in the center bottom
between the 2 sides, then make 7 sc, evenly spaced, up the left back opening, with the
last sc being in the end of the 1st sc made on this row; ch 1, turn. (55 sc, 1 sl st, ch-3
buttonhole)
2. Sc in next 6 sc, sl st in next sc; FO. (6 sc, sl st)
• Sew a button (or bead) to the top left side of the waist.
Bib:
1. With RS facing, sk 1st 15 sc of waist band, join with sl st in BL of next sc, ch 2, hdc in
next 9 sc; ch 2, turn. (10 hdc) (Turning ch-2 counts as 1st hdc.)
2. Hdc in next 9 hdc; ch 2, turn. (10 hdc)
3. Ch 1 (buttonhole), sk next hdc, hdc in next 6 hdc, ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in last hdc;
FO. (7 hdc, 2 ch-1 sp)
Left Strap:
1. With RS of back facing, skip 2 sc on waistband, join with sc in next sc, sc in next sc; ch
1, turn. (2 sc)
2 – 13. Sc in next 2 sc; ch 1, turn. FO after row 13. (2 sc)
Right Strap:
1. With RS of back facing, join with sc in 4th sc from the right edge of waist band, sc in
next sc; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
2 – 13. Repeat 2 – 13 of Left Strap.
• Weave loose thread ends.
• Sew a button to top of each strap near front end.
• Embellish with contrasting stitches around the legs and bib, if you wish.
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Bear Ideas

Materials:
Yarn
Crochet hook
Scissors
Stitch marker

Abbreviations:
sc : Single Crochet
inc : Increase
dec : Decrease
st: Stitch
hdc: Half Double Crochet
sl-st : Slip Stitch
ch : Chain
..in : make increase into same stitch as many as the number which is given in front of “inc” abbreviation (exp; 3inc, 4inc..).
FLO : Crochet into front loops only
BLO : Crochet into back loops only

Head:
1. 6 sc in MR
2. inc*6 (12 st)
3. (1 sc, inc)*6 (18 st)
4. (2 sc, inc)*6 (24 st)
5. (3 sc, inc)*6 (30 st)
6. (4 sc, inc)*6 (36 st)
7. 36 sc
8. 36 sc
9. (11 sc, inc)*3 (39 st)
10. 39 sc
11. (12 sc, inc)*3 (42 st)
12. 42 sc
Change color to white (for bear- don’t change)
13. 42 sc
14. 42 sc
15. 42 sc
16. (5 sc, dec)*6 (36 st)
17. (4 sc, dec)*6 (30 st)
18. (3 sc, dec)*6 (24 st)
19. (2 sc, dec) *6 (18 st)
20. (4 sc, dec) *3 (15 st)
Fasten off and cut the yarn.
Place the safety eyes between rows 11 and 12 with 8 sc between them.
I used 10 mm safety eyes.

Ears: (dog).
1. 6 sc in MR
2. (1 sc, inc)*3 (9 st)
3. 9 sc
4. 9 sc
5. 9 sc
Fold edges together and crochet two sides together with 4 sc.
Fasten off and cut the yarn. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Ears: (bear)
1. 6 sc in MR
2. (1 sc, inc)*3 (9 st)
3. (2 sc, inc)*3 (12 st)
Fold edges together and crochet two sides together with 5 sc.
Fasten off and cut the yarn. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Muzzle:
1. 6 sc in MR
2. inc*4, 2 sc (10 st)
Fasten off and cut the yarn.
Leave a long tail for sewing.

Arms:
1. 7 sc in MR
2. – 4. 7 sc (4 rows)
Fold the edges together and crochet two sides together with 3 sc.
Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Legs:
1. 6 sc in MR
2. inc*6 (12 st)
3. Back loops only – 12 sc
4. 12 sc
Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Tail:
1. 5 sc in MR
2. inc*5 (10 st)
3. (3 sc, dec)*2 (8 st)
Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Body:
1. 6 sc in MR
2. inc*6 (12 st)
3. (1 sc, inc)*6 (18 st)
4. (2 sc, inc)*6 (24 st)
5. (3 sc, inc)*6 (30 st)
6. 30 sc
7. 30 sc
8. 30 sc
9. 30 sc
10. 9 sc, dec*6, 9 sc, (24 st)
Change color to white (for the bear – don’t change the color)
11. (6 sc, dec)*3 (21 st)
12. (5 sc, dec)*3 (18 st)
13. (4 sc, dec)*3 (15 st)
14. 15 sc
15. 15 sc
Fasten off and cut the yarn. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Assembly:
Embroider the nose and the eyebrows with a thin black thread.
Sew the muzzle to the head.
See the ears to the head.
Sew the head to the body.
Sew arms to the body between rows 13 and 14. Sew the legs to the body.
See the tail to the body.
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Bear Ideas

Materials Needed:
Yarn: Chenille weight #5, premier parfait bloom
Color A: Body color, Color B: Blue, Color C: Gray
Hook Size: F hook or 3.75 mm
26 mm safety eyes, 26 mm safety nose
Scissors, sewing needle, stitch marker, fiberfill stuffing

Abbreviations:
mr= magic ring- crochet single crochet stitches in to the adjustable loop
ch= chain stitch
F/O= Fasten off
sc= single crochet stitch
hdc= half double crochet
sl= slip stitch
FLO= front loops only
dc= double crochet stitch
inc3= 3 sc in the same stitch
bob= bobble stitch
inc= increase- make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch
dec=decrease- crochet two stitches together using the decrease method
(4 sc, inc) x 6= repeat the pattern between parentheses 6 times

Notes:
• Do not join rounds unless stated, work in a continuous spiral
• Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round
• All stitches are worked in both loops unless stated otherwise in the pattern

Head:
Crocheted from top of head to bottom
With Color A:
Ch 6
1. inc in 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc, inc3 in last chain, working on opposite side of chain: 4 sc= 12
2. inc x 2, 3 sc, inc x 3, 3 sc, inc= 18
3. (sc, inc) x 2, 3 sc, (sc, inc) x 3, 4 sc, inc= 24
4. (2 sc, inc) x 2, 3 sc, (2 sc, inc) x 3, 5 sc, inc= 30
5. sc in each st around
6. (4 sc, inc) x 6= 36
7-9. sc in each st around
*In round 10, mark the 3rd inc of each set of increases, this is for eye placement*
10. 3 sc, inc x 6, 6 sc, inc x 6, 15 sc= 48
Place eyes between rounds 8 and 9, leaving 10 holes between them. Place them above the stitch markers. Look to pictures on pg. 4 for reference. If you want the sunken eye look, do not place the backs of the eyes on until round 15.
11-12. sc in each st around
13. 6 sc, dec x 3, 12 sc, dec x 3, 18 sc= 42
14. (sc, dec) x 14= 28
15. (5 sc, dec) x 4= 24
Now for the eyes. Stuff the head well. Cut a long piece of yarn and remove the eyes. Place the needle in the hole where the first eye was and insert the needle into a hole next to the eye hole. Go back and forth between each eye hole repeating the process from the first eye.
Pull slightly on the yarn after going through each hole. Do this about 3 times on each side until you reach the look you want. Follow the pictures for help.
To place the backs of the eyes you will need to remove most of the stuffing to place the washers on the eyes then re stuff it.
16. sc in each st around
17. (2 sc, dec) x 6= 18
Arms(Make 2):
With Color A:
1. Make 6 sc into a magic ring= 6
2. Increase in each st around= 12
3. (sc, inc) x 6= 18
4. sc in each st around
5. (dec x 3, 3 sc) x 2= 12
6. sc in each st around
Do not stuff the arms from here on
7. (4 sc, dec) x 2= 10
8. sc in each st around
9. (3 sc, dec) x 2= 8
10-13. sc in each st around
Fold the arms in half and sc the opening closed.
If you are choosing to sc the arms into the body, F/O but do not leave a long tail for sewing
If you would rather sew the arms onto the body like me, F/O and leave a long tail for sewing.

Tail:
With Color A:
1. Make 6 sc into a magic ring= 6
2. Increase in each st around= 12
3. sc in each st around
Stuff the tail
4. Dec x 6= 6
F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

Ears(Make 2):
With Color A:
1. Make 6 sc into a magic ring= 6
2. Increase in each st around= 12
3. (3 sc, inc) x 3= 15
4. Sc in each st around
5. (3 sc, dec) x 3= 12
Do not stuff the ears
Fold the ears in half and sc the opening closed. F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

Muzzle:
With Color A:
1. Make 8 sc into a magic ring= 8
2. Increase in each st around= 16
3. Sc in each st around
4. (inc, 7 sc) x 2= 18
Place your nose in between rounds 2 and 3 F/O and leave a long tail for sewing.

Legs and Body:
Starting with Color B:
Legs(Make 2):
1. Make 6 sc into a magic ring= 6
2. Increase in each st around= 12
3. (sc, inc) x 6= 18
4. (2 sc, inc) x 6= 24
Change to Color A:
(Work the bob st in Color C)
5. 6 sc, (bob, 2 sc) x 2, bob, 11 sc= 24
For directions on the bob stitch, refer to pg.
for help
6. (do not work off the ch 1 from round 5)
Sc in each st around
7. (2 sc, dec) x 6= 18
8. (sc, dec) x 6= 12
Start stuffing the legs
9. sc in each st around
10. (3 sc, inc) x 3= 15
11. (4 sc, inc) x 3= 18
(For the 2nd leg only work 12 sc on round 12)
12. sc in each st around
Do not F/O the 2nd leg!
Start connecting the legs to create the body:
1. work a sc on the 1st leg to connect them, work 17 more sc around the 1st leg. Work 18 sc around the the 2nd leg= 36
2. (5 sc, inc) x 6= 42
3. (6 sc, inc) x 6= 48
4-7. sc in each st around
Stuff the body as you work
8. (6 sc, dec) x 6= 42
9. (5 sc, dec) x 6= 36
10. sc in each st around
11. (10 sc, dec) x 3= 33
12. sc in each st around
13. (9 sc, dec) x 3= 30
14. sc in each st around
15. (8 sc, dec) x 3= 27
16. sc in each st around
17. (7 sc, dec) x 3= 24

Body Continued:
*If you are choosing to crochet the arms as you work instead of sewing afterwards*
18: 3 sc, work 4 sc on the arm and body, 8 sc, work 4 sc on the arm and body, 3 sc
*If you are choosing to sew the arms on later, continue on*
18. sc in each st around
19. (2 sc, dec) x 6= 18
20. sc in each st around
F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

Scarf:
Ch approximately 115
1. dc in the 3rd ch from hook and across
F/O and and some fringe on the edges of the scarf

Assembly
Head and Body:
1. Sew the head to the body. You may need to add more stuffing to the neck as you sew.

Muzzle:
1. Pin the muzzle onto the face in between the eyes.
2. Sew the muzzle onto the face. You may need more stuffing as you sew.

Ears:
1. Pin the ears onto the top of the head.
2. Sew the ears onto the head.

Tail:
1. Pin the tail onto the back of the body.
2. Sew the tail onto the body.

Arms:
1. Embroider some claws onto the arms. Approximately between rounds 3 and 5.
2. Pin the arms onto the side of the body.
3. Sew the arms onto the body.

Embellishments:
1. Add some blush to the cheeks if you want with crayon or actual blush.
That’s it!
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Bear Ideas

Materials:
– Himalaya Dolphin Baby yarn (100% polyester, 120 m/100 g, color 80302 yellow)
– YarnArt Dolce yarn (100% micro polyester, 120 m/100 g, color 754 brown)
– Black yarn (YarnArt Jeans, 55% cotton 45% acrylic, 160 m/50 g) for embroidering eye brows
– 4.0 mm crochet hook

Abbreviations:
sc : Single Crochet
inc : Increase
dec : Decrease
st: Stitch
hdc: Half Double Crochet
sl-st : Slip Stitch
ch : Chain
..in : make increase into same stitch as many as the number which is given in front of “inc” abbreviation (exp; 3inc, 4inc..).
FLO : Crochet into front loops only
BLO : Crochet into back loops only
We first start making the amigurumi bear from the legs of the teddy bear.

Legs (x 2):
With white yarn:
Make 5 ch.
Rnd 1: from the second ch from hook: 3 sc, 3 sc in last st, turn and continue crocheting on the opposite side of chain: 2 sc, inc (10)
Rnd 2: 2 inc, 1 sc, 3 inc, 1 sc, 3 inc (18)
Rnd 3-4: 18 sc (2 rnds)
Rnd 5: 5 sc, 4 dec, 5 sc (14)
Rnd 6: 5 sc, 2 dec, 5 sc (12)
Change color to yellow yarn:
Rnd 7: 12 sc
Rnd 8-9: 12 sc (2 rnds)
Stuff legs with fiberfill.
Rnd 10: 12 sc
Rnd 11: (1 sc, dec) * 4 (8)
Rnd 12: 8 sc, sl st
Finish the stuffing legs.
F.o.
After making the teddy’s legs, it’s time for the bunny shoes.

Ears for bunny shoes (x 4):
White color yarn:
Make 4 ch.
Rnd 1: from the second ch from hook: 2 sc, 3 sc in last st, turn and continue crocheting on the opposite side of chain: 2 sc, slst (7)
F.o.
Sew ears on shoes.
Now we can make the arms of the amigurumi teddy bear.

Arms (x 2):
Brown color yarn:
Rnd 1: 2 ch, 5 sc in second ch from hook (5)
Rnd 2: (inc) * 5 (10)
Rnd 3-4: 10 sc (2 rnds)
Change color to yellow yarn:
Rnd 5: (3 sc, dec) * 2 (8)
Rnd 6-10: 8 sc (5 rnds)
Just a few more pieces left. Now we will crochet the body of the amigurumi bear.

Body:
Yellow color yarn:
Rnd 1: 2 ch, 6 sc in second ch from hook (6)
Rnd 2: (inc) * 6 (12)
Rnd 3: (inc) * 12 (24)
Rnd 4: 24 sc
In the next row we will join the legs.
Rnd 5: 7 sc, 4 sc together with sc of the first leg, 9 sc, 4 sc together with sc of the second leg (24)
Rnd 6: ( 3 sc, inc) * 6 (30)
Rnd 7-9: 30 sc (3 rnds)
Rnd 10: (3 sc, dec) * 6 (24)
Rnd 11: 24 sc
Rnd 12: (2 sc, dec) * 6 (18)
In the next row we will join the arms.
Rnd 13: 6 sc, 4 sc together with sc of the first arm, 6 sc, 4 sc together with sc of the second arm, sl st
F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing.
Amigurumi teddy bear muzzle and head part will be made separately.

Head:
Brown color yarn:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: (inc) * 6 (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) * 6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) * 6 (24)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) * 6 (30)
Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) * 6 (36)
Rnd 7-9: 36 sc (3 rnds)
Rnd 10: (4 sc, dec) * 6 (30)
Rnd 11: (3 sc, dec) * 6 (24)
Rnd 12: (2 sc, dec) * 6 (18)
Rnd 13: (1 sc, dec) * 6 (12)
Stuff the head with fiberfill.
Rnd 14: (dec) * 6 (6)
After crocheting the teddy bear’s head, now let’s do the muzzle part.

Muzzle:
Brown color yarn:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: (inc) * 6 (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) * 6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) * 6 (24)
Rnd 5: 11 sc, sl st
Fasten off.
Finally, we make the ears of the teddy bear amigurumi toy.

Ears (x 2):
Brown color yarn:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: (inc) * 6 (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) * 6 (18)
Sl st, F.o.
There is a great hat pattern for amigurumi. Now let’s crochet the teddy bear’s hat.

Hat:
Start with white color yarn (pompom):
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: (1 sc, inc) * 3 (9)
Rnd 3: (2 sc, inc) * 3 (12)
Rnd 4: 12 sc
Stuff hat with fiberfill.
Rnd 5: (dec) * 6 (6)
Change to color yellow yarn:
Rnd 6: 6 sc
Rnd 7: (1 sc, inc) * 3 (9)
Rnd 8: 9 sc
Rnd 9: (2 sc, inc) * 3 (12)
Rnd 10: 12 sc
Rnd 11: (3 sc, inc) * 3 (15)
Rnd 12: 15 sc
Rnd 13: (4 sc, inc) * 3 (18)
Rnd 14: 18 sc
Rnd 15: (5 sc, inc) * 3 (21)
Rnd 16: 21 sc
Rnd 17: (6 sc, inc) * 3 (24)
Rnd 18: 24 sc
Rnd 19: (7 sc, inc) * 3 (27)
Rnd 20: 27 sc
Rnd 21: (8 sc, inc) * 3 (30)
Rnd 22-23: 30 sc (2 rnds)
Rnd 24: (9 sc, inc) * 3 (33)
Rnd 25-27: 33 sc (3 rnds)
Slst, F.o.
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Bear Ideas

Materials:
• yarn of choice for the body
• embroidery thread or scrap yarn for the face features (black and white)
• optional: safety eyes
• crochet hook in a right size for your yarn
• toy stuffing
• sewing pins, yarn needle, scissors, stitch marker
I used: Ricorumi DK in color 056 and hook 2,5 mm

Bobble Stitch:
In this pattern you will make a bobble for a bear’s tail, it will be made with 3 triple crochet. To make this, make three tr in the same stitch, but do not finish first two (stop before the last yarn over). When finishing the last tr, pull the loop through all four loops that you will have on your hook.

Pattern notes:
The whole thing is worked in continous rounds. If you will use the same yarn and hook as me, your toy will measure approx. 10 cm in height.

Arms x2:
• arms have to be made first, because we will attach these while crocheting the body
R1. 6 sc in MR [6]
R2. (1 sc, inc) x3 [9]
R3-7. sc around (5 rounds) [9]
• stuff lightly only the very beginning of the arm
R8. (1 sc, dec) x2, 3 sc [7]
• fold in half, next round is worked through stitches of the both layers, skip the last stitch of the last round
R9. 3 sc, ch 1
• fasten off, pull the last ch very tight, weave in end

Head:
R1. 6 sc in MR [6]
R2. 6 inc [12]
R3. (1 sc, inc) x6 [18]
R4. (1 sc, inc,1 sc) x6 [24]
R5. sc around [24]
R6. (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]
R7-8. sc around (2 rounds) [30]
R9. (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x6 [36]
R10. 9 sc, 2 inc, 14 sc, 2 inc, 9 sc [40
R11. sc around [40]
R12. (2 sc, dec) x10 [30]
R13. (1 sc, dec) x10 [20]
• embroider the face; increases from rnd 10 should be at the sides and face should be centered between these, at the opposite side of the stitch marker; I emroidered the eyes over rnds 8-9, 6 sts apart, with tiny horizontal white sts as a light sparks, brows 1 st above the eyes, nose between rnds 9-10, 2 sts wide, snout one rnd down (see the picture for the reference)
R14. (2 sc, dec) x5 [15]
• start stuffing and continue to the end
R15. (1 sc, dec) x5 [10]
R16. 5 dec [5]
• fasten off, close the hole – with the tapestry needle, thread the yarn through the front loops of the last rnd and pull tight, weave in end

Ears (make 2):
R1. 6 sc in MR [6]
• do not close the ring, fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing

Legs (make 2):
R1. 6 sc in MR [6]
R2. 6 inc [12]
R3-7. sc around (5 rounds) [12]
• make additional 4 sc (for both legs)
• fasten off and weave in end for the first leg, crochet the second leg the same way but do not fasten off, mark the last st as a new end of the round and continue crocheting
• now you will connect two legs and start crocheting the body

Body:
R8. 5 sc, 1 sl st, ch 1, make the next st in the st right after last made sc of the first leg, 1 sl st, 11 sc, inc in one side of the chain, 6 sc [27]
R9. 5 sc, 1 sc in sl st, inc in the other side of the chain, 1 sc in sl st,19 sc [28]

R10. 21 sc, bobble stitch with 3 tr, 6 sc [28]
• the bobble st should be in the middle of the back, adjust
stitches if needed
R11. 26 sc, finish this round here [28]
• mark the last sc as a new round end
• stuff the legs and stuff the body as you go
R12. 8 sc, dec, (7 sc, dec) x2 [25]
R13. sc around [25]
R14. 3 sc, dec, (7 sc, dec) x2, 2 sc [22]
R15. sc around [22]
R16. 4 sc, dec, (5 sc, dec) x2, 2 sc [19]
• in the next round we will attach the arms, sc through the arm and the body at the same time, position the arms with the wrong side of the last row facing upwards.
• find 3 sts on each side of the body as a place for the arms, there should be 6 sts distance on the front between these.
R17. make 1 sc in every st or the pair of sts where you are attaching arms to the body, in my case it was: 1 sc, 3 sc through the arm and the body, 6 sc, 3 sc through the arm and the body, 6 sc [19]
R18. (1 sc, dec) x6, sl st [13]
• fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing, finish stuffing

Assembly:
• sew the ears to the head between rounds 4-7, on the opposite sides of the head lined with the arms, right side of the ears has to be facing forward
• sew the head to the body, stuff the neck firmly
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Bear Ideas

NECESSARY MATERIALS:
1. Yarn 4-5 colors. The work used Yarnart Jeans
2. Hook No:2
3. Eyes (9 mm)
4. Filler (holofiber)
5. Scissors
6. sewing needle
When using the specified materials, the size of the toy will be 20cm.

Abbreviations:
AR – Amigurumi Magic ring
MR – Amigurumi Magic ring
3in1 – crochet 3 columns in one loop
sc : Single Crochet
inc : Increase
dec : Decrease
tr : Triple Crochet/ Treble Crochet
st: Stitch
dc : Double Crochet
hdc: Half Double Crochet
sl-st or Slst: Slip Stitch
ch : Chain
tch: Turnin chain crochet
..in : make increase into same stitch as many as the number which is given in front of “inc” abbreviation (exp; 3inc, 4inc..).
FLO : Crochet into front loops only
BLO : Crochet into back loops only

Head: main color
1. 6sc in MR
2. 6inc (12)
3. (sc, inc)*6 (18)
4. (sc, inc)*9 (27)
5. (2sc, inc)*9 (36)
6-7. 36sc
8. (5sc, inc)*6 (42)
9. 42sc
10. (6sc, inc)*6 (48)
11-12. 48sc
13. 8sc, (inc, 2sc)*3, 15sc, (2sc, inc)*3, 7sc (54)
14. 8sc, (inc, 3sc)*3, 15sc, (3sc, inc)*3, 7sc (60)
15-17. 60sc
18. (8sc, dec)*6 (54)
19. 54sc
20. (7sc, dec)*6 (48)
21. (4sc, dec)*8 (40)
22. (2sc, dec)*10 (30)
23. (3sc, dec)*6 (24)
24. (6sc, dec)*3 (21)
Leave a tail for sewing
Eyes 9mm, place between rows 13 and 14, 8sc apart

Ears: main color
1. 8sc in MR
2. 8inc (16)
3. 16slst
Leave a tail for sewing

Muzzle: white
1. 6sc in MR
2. 6inc (12)
3. (3sc, inc)*3 (15)
4. 15sc
Leave a tail for sewing

Arms: main color
1. 6sc in MR
2. 6inc (12)
3-4. 12sc
5. 5sc, 3dc in 1 loop, 6sc (12)
6. 4sc, 2dec, 4sc (10)
7-11. 10sc
Change to shirt color
12. BLO 10sc
13. 10sc
Change to an additional color of the blouse
14. 10sc
change color
15-16. 10sc
change color
17. 10sc
change color
18-19. 10sc
Fold the part in half, crochet 5 sc on both sides, leave the tail for sewing

Legs: main color
1. 6sc in MR
2. 6inc (12)
3. (sc, inc)*6 (18)
4. (5sc, inc)*3 (21)
5-6. 21sc
7. 6sc, 5dec, 5sc (16)
8. 4sc, 4dec, 4sc (12)
Change to pants color
9. 12sc BLO
10-13. 12sc
14. (3sc, inc)*3 (15)
15. 15sc
Fasten the thread on the first leg, cut
On the second leg, crochet an additional 5-6sc so that the legs look even and move on to crochet the body

Body: +3ch
1. (15sc, 3sc in ch)*2 (36)
2. (5sc, inc)*6 (42)
3. (6sc, inc)*6 (48)
4-7. 48sc
8.(6sc, dec)*6 (42)
9. 42sc
Change color to the main color of the blouse
10. 42sc BLO
11. (5sc, dec)*6 (36)
Change color to additional, then alternate
12. 36sc
change color
13. 36sc
14. (4sc, dec)*6 (36)
change color
15. 30sc
change color
16. 30sc
17. (3sc, dec)*6 (24)
change color
18. 24sc
change color
19. 24sc
Change to bear color
20. BLO (6sc, dec)*3 (21)
Next, decorate the toy, sew on all the details and the bear is ready 
CONGRATULATIONS

More Amigurumi Bear Ideas

List of materials:
Yarn “YarnArt Jeans” semi-cotton 50g / 160m, colors:
– 70 milk chocolate, a little for decoration of the muzzle
– 01 white, for the muzzle
– 05 cold beige, consumption 0.5 skein
– 61 coral, consumption 0.5 skein
– 60 light green neon, consumption 0.5 skein
Hook number 2, sewing needle, scissors,
long needle for tightening Filler – holofiber Safe eyes or half beads with a diameter of 9 mm.

You can use completely different yarn.
The size and quality of the product will depend on this.
The toy is crocheted in a spiral from both walls of the loop, unless otherwise indicated.
The growth of the finished toy when using these materials is about 20 cm.

Abbreviations:
AR – Amigurumi Magic ring
MR – Amigurumi Magic ring
3in1 – crochet 3 columns in one loop
sc : Single Crochet
inc : Increase
dec : Decrease
tr : Triple Crochet/ Treble Crochet
st: Stitch
dc : Double Crochet
hdc: Half Double Crochet
sl-st or Slst: Slip Stitch
ch : Chain
tch: Turnin chain crochet
..in : make increase into same stitch as many as the number which is given in front of “inc” abbreviation (exp; 3inc, 4inc..).
FLO : Crochet into front loops only
BLO : Crochet into back loops only

Legs + body:
We start crocheting with cold beige yarn.
1 Rnd: 6sc in MR
2 Rnd: 6inc (12)
3 Rnd: (1sc, inc)*6 (18)
4 – 5 Rnd: 18sc (2 rnds)
Change to light green neon yarn.
6 Rnd: 8sc, 2inc, 8sc (20)
7 – 10 Rnd: 20sc (4 rnds)
11 Rnd: 9sc, 2inc, 9sc (22)
12 – 13 Rnd: 22sc (2 rnds)
14 Rnd: 10sc, 2inc, 10sc (24)
15 Rnd: 24sc

Fasten and cut the yarn on the first leg.
We crochet the second leg in the same way as the first. We do not cut the yarn, but continue to crochet the body.

16 Rnd: from the second leg, dial a chain of 3ch and attach to the first leg with the help of slst.
Next, crochet 24sc on the first part, 3sc on the chain from ch, 24sc on the second part, 3sc on the reverse side of the chain from ch (54sc) In this place, you need to set a marker (the marker is at the back).

17 – 24 Rnd: 54sc (8 rows)
Change to coral color yarn.
25 Rnd: 54sc
26 Rnd: 54sc BLO
27 – 29 Rnd: 54sc (3 rnds)
30 Rnd: (7sc, dec)*6 (48)
31 – 32 Rnd: 48sc (2 rnds)
33 Rnd: (6sc, dec)*6 (42)
34 – 35 Rnd: 42sc (2 rnds)
36 Rnd: (5sc, dec)*6 (36)
37 – 38 Rnd: 36sc (2 rnds)
39 Rnd: (4sc, dec)*6 (30)
40 – 41 Rnd: 30sc (2 rnds)
42 Rnd: (3sc, dec)*6 (24)
43 Rnd: 24sc BLO
Change to cold beige yarn.
44 Rnd: (10sc, dec)*2 (22)
Stuff the body tightly. Cut the yarn, hide the end of the yarn inside the part.
26 row, where we crocheted BLO, we will tie 1 next sc with coral yarn.

Collar:
To the 43rd row, where we crocheted BLO, we attach a coral-colored yarn.
1 row: we crochet inc from sc in each half loop of the row to the end (48)
2 – 4 Rnd: 48sc (3 rnds)
Cut the yarn, hide the end of the yarn.
Laces:
crochet with coral yarn.
From the chain with 10ch we will make laces for the collar.
Fasten the yarn to the collar, crochet 10ch, make a knot. Repeat the same for the second string. We fasten the laces symmetrically in the center of the collar.

Head:
We crochet with cold beige yarn.
1 Rnd: 6sc in MR
2 Rnd: 6inc (12)
3 Rnd: (1sc, inc)*6 (18)
4 Rnd: (2sc, inc)*6 (24)
5 Rnd: (3sc, inc)*6 (30)
6 Rnd: (4sc, inc)*6 (36)
7 Rnd: (5sc, inc)*6 (42)
8 Rnd: (6sc, inc)*6 (48)
9 Rnd: (7sc, inc)*6 (54)
10 – 19 Rnd: 54sc (10 rows)
If you use safety eyes, we fasten them between 10 – 11 rows. The approximate distance between the eyes is 8 loops.
20 Rnd: (7sc, dec)*6 (48)
21 Rnd: (6sc, dec)*6 (42)
22 Rnd: (5sc, dec)*6 (36)
23 Rnd: (4sc, dec)*6 (30)
24 Rnd: (3sc, dec)*6 (24)
25 Rnd: (10sc, dec)*2 (22)
Fill tightly. Leave the yarn for sewing.

Muzzle:
We crochet with white yarn.
1 Rnd: 6sc in MR
2 Rnd: 6inc (12)
3 Rnd: (1sc, inc)*6 (18)
4 Rnd: (2sc, inc)*6 (24)
5 – 7 Rnd: 24sc (3 rnds)
Leave the yarn for sewing.

Ears (2 parts):
We crochet with cold beige yarn.
1 Rnd: 6sc in MR
2 Rnd: 6inc
3 Rnd: (3sc, inc)*3 (15)
4 Rnd: 15sc
5 Rnd: (3sc, dec)*3 (12)
Do not stuff the ears. Fold in half and crochet 6sc for both loops. Leave a long yarn for sewing.

Upper legs (2 parts):
We crochet with cold beige yarn.
1 Rnd: 6sc in MR
2 Rnd: 6inc (12)
3 Rnd: (3sc, inc)*3 (15)
4 – 6 Rnd: 15sc (3 rnds)
7 Rnd: (3sc, dec)*3 (12)
Change to coral color yarn.
8 – 23 Rnd: 12sc (16 rows)
We stuff the paws in the process of crocheting: stuff the bottom very tightly, the middle is medium, the upper part (about 1-2 cm) can not be stuffed.
Fold the foot in half and connect 6sc for both loops. The second foot is crocheted in the same way.

Assembly and decoration:
First, let’s draw the head of the bear.
We outline two points of tightening on the head of the bear:
points 1 and 2 are located between 10 and 11 side by side, the distance between them is approximately 8 loops.

We insert a needle with a strong yarn into the base of the head, bring it to the tightening point of the right eye. We retreat 1 column, insert the needle, bring it to the tightening point of the left eye. We retreat 1 column, insert the needle, bring it to the base of the head.
We repeat the tightening several times, constantly pulling the yarn. We fix the yarn.
Sew on the eyes in place of the tightening.

Sew a muzzle to the head. Sew in the center of the lower part of the head, under the eyes, approximately between 10 – 11 (upper border) and 19 – 20 (lower border) rows. During sewing, when a small hole remains, fill the muzzle with holofiber and sew to the end.

Then, sew on the ears, securing them with pins first. The ears should be symmetrical. Sew on the ears approximately between 5-10 rows of the head.

We embroider the nose, eyebrows and eyelashes with a yarn of milk chocolate color. We embroider the whites of the eyes with white yarn in order to make the eyes look more “alive”.

We sew the head and torso, fastening them first in a circle with pins.
When a small hole remains, fill the gap between the neck and head with holofiber.
You need to fill it tightly so that the head does not bend.
We sew to the end. Hide the end of the yarn inside the part.

On the sides of the body we sew the upper legs, securing them with pins. I sewed between 41 – 42 rows of the body.
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Bear Ideas